Fuel Tank

Spent the day reading and then deburring the parts necessary to assemble the fuel tank. The plans seem to be clear and will mix my first batch of fuel tank sealant on Friday.

Attached the nutplates to the forward face of the tank and attached the nutplates to the brace.

Bought myself a bunch of nytril gloves, the first time I mixed a batch of sealant for the firewall, my hands were black for about a week.

Time Today - 4 hours

Also Was Wondering About Stabilator Bushings

Has anyone noticed?

See Figure 1 on Page 32-14. The stabilator cables are routed thru the forward and aft flange of the center section bulkhead (F-1204A and D) and then thru the baggage bulkhead (F-1206A). Per the plans, bushings are not shown on the figure nor have they been inserted via a plan step. This is the ONLY place where bushings have NOT been specified when cables pass thru a CIRCULAR hole in a bulkhead or flange.

Was this an oversight? I sent an e-mail to Van's today.

Completed the Wiring - For Now

During past few days I completed all of the wiring with the exception of a few items where I am awaiting a reply from Van's support. Then re-installed the rudder pedals, hopefully for the last time.

Bundling of the wires and then routing them so there would be adequate clearance for the rudder pedals took some time. The two DG6 clamps have to first be flattened a bit so they are not too thick as they will interfere with the rudder pedal torque tubes. The plans show the clamps pointing inward. This will not work because there will not be enough room for the rudder pedal blocks to slip in between the two clamps. Van's support indicated it was acceptable to point them outward. Trying to fit all of the wiring, the two coaxial cables and the static line thru two clamps is nearly impossible without crushing something. A better solution would have been to use two smaller clamps pointing inward and the two flattened DG6 clamps pointing outward.

Inserted the rudder pedals. Bundled all of the wiring above and below the panel. Installed the autopilot disconnect switch in the central panel section and wired it to the DB-37 pin connector. Inserted the pins from the music wire harness, the PTT wires and the trim wires. Attached the hood.

Was ready to complete the DB-25 pin connectors but ran into a problem. Page 31-07, Step 7. Looking at the MAIN DB-25 pin connector on the WH-RV12-OPTIONAL harness. There is a white-black wire and a orange wire with female pins attached that are NOT inserted in the DB-25 connector. The wires are just hanging. Jim Cone saw the same.

Traced the wires and they are a part of the future autopilot servo harness. There is an orange and a white black wire in this 7 wire AUTOPILOT SERVO harness. Page 31-09, Step 8. Checked with a DVM and there is continuity. The same wires continue to the tail.

So they most likely SHOULD be inserted into a location on the MAIN DB-25. Will await an answer from Van's support.

So, with regard to the wiring, the DB-25 connectors need to be completed and the magnetic reed switches need to be installed. I am awaiting a response on both of these items.

Also need to attach the fittings to the static line (will wait for the Dynon D-180).

Time over Past Few Days - 8 hours

Finished the Mapbox

The 5W CAMLOC fastener came from Aircraft Spruce today, so I finished the mapbox. The 5W grip length worked just fine with the powdercoat finish. Also, did a bit of reading, trying to build up the courage to attack the fuel tank.

Time Today - 2 hours

Avionics Preview - Plug 'n Play!!

Installation of the avionics, once available, should be plug and play. JerryG took some photos of the switch panel and circuit board at SnF09.

The pictures give me a good idea on the length of the cables that must be left above the instrument panel deck. Feel much more confident in installing the wiring clamps below the panel and re-installing the rudder pedals.

Thanks, Jerry!!!

Backordered Parts

All of the remaining parts arrived from Van's today. I attempted to install the AN4-14A bolt in the elevator pulley. It would not fit. The hole was a couple of mils undersized. Thought about it for a while and then called John Bender. He had the same problem. Because it is in a tight space, a drill would not fit and everything else I could think of would not work. John told me to try a small bit of sandpaper rolled into a small cylindrical shape. Twirlled the sandpaper with my fingers and a minute later the bolt just cleared the hole. Problem solved, thanks John.

Then removed the CAMLOC from the mapbox door. A post on VAF said to use a small pick. IT WORKED. The lockwasher is junk, but have ordered another with the 5W CAMLOC. The picture also shows the small notch I had to cut in the mapbox door to be able to insert the CAMLOC thru the 1/4" hole.

Spent the rest of the day reading about fuel tank assembly.

Time Today - 1 hour

Instrument Panel Sections Back From Powerdercoat

Yesterday I picked up the 3 instrument panel sections and the mapbox door from the powdercoat shop. Then barely started the assembly and attachment of the mapbox to the rightmost section before the day was over.

The instrument panel sections look GREAT! A medium gray powdercoat followed by a flat powdercoat. NO glare! Kinda like what I ended up with.

Today, drilled the hole in the mapbox door for the CAMLOC fastener. Could not insert the fastener thru the 1/4" hole in the mapbox door. Had to use a small triangular file to cut two grooves in the mapbox door to allow the pins on the CAMLOC fastener to get thru.

Then tried to fit the CAMLOC receptacle. IT WOULD NOT WORK! Because the powdercoat finish is quite thick, the grip length of the CAMLOC supplied (2600-4W) was TOO short. Ordered a 5W and lockwasher from Wicks Aircraft. Its grip length is a bit longer. It should work, now I have to figure out how to remove the CAMLOC washer from the 4W! Maybe have to use God's tool, the DREMEL.

Then tried to trial fit all of the panel sections. They DID NOT FIT! Because the tolerances are so tight, the powdercoat thickness interfered. Had to sand the powdercoat off the edges of the 3 panel sections where they abutt each other. It sanded so well, touchup is not required. After sanding all of them fit very well.

LESSONS LEARNED from my 1st powdercoat experience:

Tell the powdercoat shop to paint ONE side. MARK the back side DO NOT PAINT!!
Tell the powdercoat shop to apply the thinnest layers possible.

Also finished the fuel tank window area by applying the clearcoat.

The 1st shop I contacted wanted $150 to powdercoat the 4 sections plus both sets of the hinges. Reflex Fitness Products, INC. in Milan, IL did it for less than $50-60 plus shipping. 309-756-1050. www.reflexfitness.com They did a very good job. They can ship!

Tell Mike I told ya to call!!

Time Yesterday and Today - 4 hours

Non-Skid Pads & Interior Painting

Applied the non skid pads to the step floor and the roll bar crossmember. Then masked around the non-skid pads. Used the grey stone finish and put a clearcoat over it after it dried. On the crossmember I measured 7/8" vice the 3/4" in the plans. The pads stick very well, you get ONE chance. A helper is useful here.

Then primed the fuel tank window area ensuring I masked all of the holes. Will apply the stone finish to this tiny bit on the fuel tank. After fuel tank assembly, I will be able to mask the window area and paint the remainder of the tank.

Time Today - 3 hours

Finished Control System Install - For Now

Really did not work much on the 12 on Sunday. Adam helped me pull the rudder cables and the elevator cables since there was no school.

Today, I completed the control system installation, for now. Attaching the bolts, washers and nuts took a bit of ingenuity. I either need another set of hands or more joints in my wrists to navigate the tight spaces. But got it done with the assistance of Renee. There are many steps yet to perform in Section 32, once I am able to attach the wings and the VS and HS.

Found I was shorted the AN4-14A bolt that passes thru the center of the elevator pulleys. It is shown on the plans but it does not appear on the hardware list! Called Van's and they will be sending it.

Finished the day by priming the step area. Will attach the non-skid pads to the step area on Tuesday and then final paint the step area with the stone finish.

Time Today - 4 hours

Flap Detent Bracket

Worked on the flap detent bracket. The flap handle pushbutton would not fit on the tube where it is mounted to nor would the pushbutton fit inside the flap handle. Had to sand the end of the tube down a bit to allow it to slide on the tube and sand the middle step on the pushbutton to allow it to slide in the flap handle.

To sand the end of the tube, I mounted the tube in a battery powered hand drill and used some sandpaper to reduce its outer diameter. Went slow and took off just enough so the pushbutton would just slip on the tube.

To sand the pushbutton, I used the scrap from the tube and first reduced its outer diameter just a bit, allowing a friction fit between the scrap tube and the pushbutton. Mounted it in the drill and used sandpaper to reduce the outer diameter of the middle step. Went slow and took off enough so it would slide in the flap handle.

Mounted the detent bracket and pushbutton assembly and spring in the fuselage using the 0.025" spacers. It was about 1/32" too short so I allowed for this when I riveted the pushbutton to the tube.

Primed all of the components and final painted the upper portion of the flap bracket my powdercoat color. Will final paint the lower portion of the detent bracket with the grey stone finish on Sunday.

Cut and final drilled the F-1261 plastic flaperon spacers. When drilling these to #12 do it in steps. If you try to drill it to #12 in one step, it will get sucked up the bit as the bit penetrates. ONLY DRILL THE SPACER TO #12 AND NOT THE BRACKET. Expoxied them to the bracket using a piece of 1/8" scrap to maintain the required clearance. After allowing the expoxy to set up a bit riveted it.

When fitting the grommet material for the fuselage flaperon hole cut it 0.5" LONGER than the plans indicate. 3 3/16" is TOO SHORT. Trial fit it, and cut off just enough for a good fit.

Will not final drill the flaperon torque tubes now. It will have to wait until I have enough room to mount the wings.

Started to gather and debur the parts for rudder cable installation.

Time Today - 5 hours

Installed Mixer to Flaperon Push Tube, Wing Pin Magnets and Reed Switches

Cut the push tube to size and then primed it. Inserted the bushing into the ends of the tube by cutting a small block of wood and drilling a hole thru it. Pounded the block as opposed to the bushing to insert it. Riveted the ends and set the length per the plans. Installed the push tube.

Fabricated the small washer insertion tool as suggested by Jim Cone. Glad I took the 20 minutes to build it. Worked very well to insert the washers on both sides of the flaperon bearings.

My CARE package arrived from Van's today. Enclosed were the magnets and reed switches for the wing attach pins. These were some of the shorted and/or backordered items.

Installed the magnet in the wing pin (not yet expoxied) and the reed switch wired to a DVM. Could not get the reed switch to close after trying a multitude of reed switch positions.

In the fuselage the magnet is vertical and the reed switch is horizontal and is 9/16" from the tip of the reed switch to the magnet centerline.

Removed them and did some bench testing. With the magnet vertical and the reed switch horizontal you have to get them to within 7/16" for the reed switch to work (close) reliably. The pair become more sensitive if you could mount the reed switch vertically. With the magnet AND reed switch vertical, (ie. side by side) they work reliably at 9/16".

Also tried reversing the magnet, did NOT make a difference. Also tried mounting the magnet higher in the tube, it was worse. The reed switch is more sensitive to the magnet ends as opposed to the center of the magnet (with the magnet vertical/reed switch horizontal).

This is MOST definitely a problem and will e-mail Vans.

Time Today - 5 hours

VAF RV-12 White Pages - ADD Your Name!!!

!!
Click Here to View the VAF RV-12 White Pages
!!
Click Here for Instructions to Add Yourself to the List
!!

Control Stick to Flaperon Mixer Push Tubes

All I did was install the flaperon push tubes between the control sticks and the flaperon mixer. It took 3 hours!!! The tiny washers were a bear to install. Ended up using superglue to hold them in position then carefully tried to fit them. It still took several tries. Torqued the bolts to specification. (I had previously trimmed the bushing in the control stick a few days ago when I installed the PTT wiring).

Time Today - 3 hours

Section 32 - Flight Controls

Started the flight controls. As I had previously installed the brake fluid reservoir I deburred the flaperon mixer bellcrank and riveted the bearings. Assembled the flap handle. Fabricated the flap handle mounting blocks. And then trial fitted the flap handle.

The fuel lines (both the supply and return line) have to be bent down in the area below the flap handle. In this area they have to be bent down so they just about touch the bottom skin otherwise the flap handle tube will rub here. I slit a short piece of tygon tubing and placed it over the fuel lines. Then used a short 1x2" to press down of the lines. It worked without denting the lines. (Can slip a credit card between the tube and the fuel line).

Installed the flaperon mixer bellcrank. Used the superglue trick to hold the bottom washer in position.

Then fabricated and tapped the control stick pushrods. Primed them.

Time Today - 5 hours

Many Have Wondered About the RV-12 Plans Revisions and What is Required

From a post from Van's on April 14, 2009.

PLANS REVISION SYSTEM
This is probably a good place to remind RV-12 builder how the plans memo/revision system works. RV-12 changes will be posted on our website.

• CHANGE MEMOS note insignificant spelling/wording changes to drawings that will not affect the aircraft at all. Memos will NOT show a revision level change in the drawing title block. Dates, however, will change.
• CHANGE NOTICES may reflect changes in hardware callouts, dimensional changes, additional instructions, etc. that affect construction. Change Notices WILL show a revision level change in the drawing title block as well as a date change.
• SERVICE BULLETINS define required changes to the aircraft. Drawings, parts and methods will be defined and available to enable builders to comply. This may include both revisions to existing drawings and new drawings, as necessary.

It’s up to the builder to check our website frequently. Go to the opening page, click on Service Information/Revisions, scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on page 2.

• If you find a drawing with a later date or a higher revision number than the one you have, and it shows a portion of construction that you have not already accomplished, simply print out the new drawing and destroy the old one. There’s no need to keep track of exactly what changed. (Don’t have printer that can handle 11x17 paper? Your friends down at the all-night copy shop do, and they can open our web-based file right from the store.)
• If you find a drawing with a later date or higher revision number than the one you have, and it shows a portion of construction you have already accomplished, there is NO REQUIREMENT to re-do any step of construction to conform with a revision.
• If we determine that there is some reason that an accomplished construction step must be re-done, we will issue a Service Bulletin detailing the required steps and/or parts.

Completed the Electrical Wiring For Now

With Easter over and the federal & state taxes complete and filed, it was time to get back to the 12. Yesterday visited John Bender and observed the canopy fiberglass process.

Today, completed the majority of the electrical wiring with the exception of the installation of the autopilot disconnect switch (waiting for the instrument panel to come back from powerdercoat). This, after receiving a few parts that I had ordered and purchased outright. Wanted to wait for these parts and finish the electrical before moving on.

I believe I may a problem with the length of the 5 conductor trim cable (WH-P30). With 8" of wire extending aft of the tailcone bulkhead, which is barely enough to wrap around the cable clamp attached to the servo tray, the trim wire appears to be about 16 to 18" too short. I measured this 16-18" by comparing it with the length of the 37 Pin Tunnel D-Sub connector harness that is above the instrument panel shelf. The trim wires are to plug into this connector. Step 3 on Page 31-04 requires us to leave 28.5" of the TUNNEL harness above the instrument panel shelf. The trim cable/wire is taut and all of the cables are bundled temporarily below the instrument panel shelf.

I did not shorten the aft end of the trim cable. Because of the manner in which the cable sheath was removed at the aft end I think I am going to have to heatshink the individual conductors/wires to give the cable some integrity. (See attached picture). My alternative here is to pull the cable further aft and then trim the wires. The insulated portion of the wire would then reach the cable clamp attached to the servo tray. BUT this would aggravate my problem with the length at the instrument panel.

Sent all of this Van's, and received the following reply.

"It's puzzling why some people seem to end up short on this, but others have made it work OK. All the P30s should be 260" long.

You definitely have too much wire out of the aft end though. P 10-08 specifies 6" out of the rear bulkhead - ie the strip point on the wire should be at the snap bushing, so your pic shows at least 2-3" too much out the back. It is not necessary to add heat shrink on the 6" of exposed wires. 6" is enough to connect to the servo OK - that is what we have on the airplane here.

It is also necessary to cut the corner going up to the panel from the clamp on the flow transducer. The wire will be too short if you go right to the firewall, up the firewall and back to the hole in the avionics deck." Gus

I really do not like the idea of having all of the other wires in one neat bundle (all forward of the rudder pedal cables) and the trim wire outside of the neat bundle allowing it to "cut the corner" per Gus' reply.

I did not tie wrap the OAT temperature probe cable and 4 wires from the WH-RV12-TUNNEL harness and the 9 pin D-sub connector to the F-1208 fuselage frame in the tailcone. Left the wires coiled in the tailcone. Once I get the Avionics kit, I will crawl into the tailcone ONCE to install this cable and the magnetometer (think that is what the D-sub will plug into). The fuel tank will most likely have to come out, either way.

Found a very nice document on the Dynon website describing the installation of the Dynon D180, the OAT probe and the magnetometer. See Appendix B.

Click here for the Dynon D180 Installation Manual

The only other problem I had during the electrical wiring installation per Section 31 was a couple of missing bushings. Section 31, Page 31-12, Step 3. The step has us route the wires thru a bushing in F-1207D-L. There is no step to install the small bushing and the bushing is NOT included in the finishing kit. Sent the info to Van's.

I reread ALL steps in Section 31 and verify my work because I skipped around during the install. Have a punch list of about 15 items. Will be able to complete the punch list with the parts Van's will be sending and once I install the rudder pedals.
All wiring is now installed, the punch list primarily consists of wire clamp, bushing, reed switch and reed switch magnet installation (shorted parts).

Flight controls install is next.

Time Today - 3 hours