On Monday, removed the top and bottom cowls. Labeled the hinge half's. Then found it easier to countersink all of the #40 holes with the cowls removed. The front holes will get nutplates so you do not countersink the forward 6 holes on the front.
Riveted the hinges to the top cowling and the bottom cowling. Reassembled all. The hinge pins went in pretty good. All went together rather well.
On Tuesday, attached the 8 nutplates to the front of the bottom cowl. Then started to work on the oil door. A seemingly simple job took quite a bit of time. Fabricated and deburred the metal door and the hinge parts. Then cut the hole in the top cowl following a suggestion via Larry Geiger. Do not cut to the upper scribe line (edge at the hinge line) BUT leave a good 1/8"-3/16" to the scribe line. You can always remove more later, if needed. I used the reinforced cutting disk in the Dremel.
Attached the CAMLOC fasteners, drilling the hole in the top cowl to 7/16".
Match drilled the hinge parts and riveted the hinge half to the top cowl and the hinge half and doubler to the metal oil door. Attached the hardware and the oil door would NOT open. The top of the metal oil door interfered with the indentation edge in the top cowl fiberglass. Some of the material at the top of the oil door needed to be removed. (This is the reason for leaving the 1/8" of fiberglass at the upper scribe line. It is not possible to remove enough metal from the oil door without creating a gap if the fiberglass is cut to the scribe line). It now works!!
Time Yesterday and Today - 10 hours
