Trimmed the Canopy Sides

Used the same 40 grit sandpaper on a block to remove 1/8" off of the canopy sides. This gave me the correct clearance between the canopy and the frame on both sides. A lot more dust and muscle but it worked.

Ended up with a VERY good fit. Used the very coarse sandpaper (40 grit), then 80, 120, 220. Then formed the edges with the Avery plexiglass scraper to bevel the edges. And finish sanded all of the edges on the canopy with 400 grit. A nice polished surface!

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 5 hours

Removed 1/8" from the Forward Edge of the Canopy

Spent the entire day trying different methods to remove 1/8" from the forward edge of the canopy. Tried a 3" sanding disk (too imprecise), a sandpaper flapping disk (sort of imprecise) and then resorted to some 40 grit sandpaper on a block. A lot of dust and muscle but it worked. There must be a better idea and method!! A lot of dust later..........

Ended up with a VERY good fit. Used the very coarse sandpaper (40 grit), then 120, 220 and will finish the edge with 400 grit after I form the edges with the Avery plexiglass scraper.

Looks like I will have to remove 1/8" from the bottom of the sides where the canopy will be near the frame (the plans tell us to leave a 1/8" gap). The aft portion will then have to be finished, no material has to be removed. The rear window will need about 1/16" of trimming to get the 1/32" gap between the canopy and rear window.

UPDATE: Wear a dust mask!! I was out of commission for about 4 days after I sanded the front bow and sides of the canopy. Think the dust induced a pretty good respiratory infection.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 3 hours

Installing the Canopy - 1st Time

Time to update the blog. Installed the canopy for the 1st time. The canopy I received had been pre-drilled for the canopy latch and had been cut out at the forward outboard corners to clear the weld in the canopy frame. As such the steps in the plans pertaining to these two items were not necessary. A bit of trimming, tho, will be required at the forward outboard corners to clear the welds. Installed the low tack tape, but this is a bit premature as the canopy will have to go on and come off before the tape is required.

Had an initial TIGHT fit. Was obvious that some of the canopy would have to be removed where it abutts the instrument panel. Was also obvious that the canopy frame would have to lifted at its most aft position so the frame was even or parallel with the rollbar. Had to insert another 1/8" spacer under the most aft position of the canopy frame. (Total is now 1/4" at this most aft position).

Will remove 1/8" from the most forward edge of the canopy on Friday.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 5 hours

Canopy Frame is Complete

Went to the hardware store this morning and bought some brass washers. A single washer on each side gave me the clearance that is required at the pivot point. Tried two washers first, but, one was enough.

Fitted the canopy frame to the fuselage using the alignment blocks and spring clamps. Used the suggested cardboard on top of the canopy decks and also used 2 pieces of 1/8" thick scrap Al plate near the rollbar. Clamped all into position using the large spring clamps.

Fluted the attach angles and then match drilled them and riveted them to the frame.

Suggest you first position the VERY TOP centerline of frame with the centerline of the rollbar. You have to get on top!! After doing this, all else aligned perfectly.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 5 hours

Canopy Continued Then a Problem!!

Continued to prep the parts for the canopy by deburring and then pre-drilling the angles that will be used to secure the plexiglass bubble to the canopy decks. Attached the gas struts and then we mounted the frame on the fuselage. All fit rather well. The first time we tried to OPEN the frame ---- Disaster! The forward edge of the canopy frame caught on the instrument panel forward fuselage deck and bent it quite a bit. Disappointed to say the least!!! Reading forward 3 steps in the newly revised plans, it says this is a possibility. Wish I had read AHEAD and understood what it was trying to tell me. Oh well! Spent the rest of the day repairing the damage. With the seaming pliers, I was able to bend the deck back into shape. I also removed some of the deck overlap with the scotchbrite wheel. Maybe a bit of body filler later to smooth the bumps. Will go to the hardware store tomorrow and get some brass washers.

The plans SHOULD require the washers at the pivot point as others have experienced the same!!

The pictures show the deck after the repair.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today including the Repair - 6 hours

Started the Canopy

Started to gather the parts for the canopy. Spent the day deburring the frame and grinding the weld at the front of the canopy frame where the plexi will be in contact with the frame. Used the Dremel on the weld and used the 1" scotchbrite wheel on all of the other edges. The scalloped aft end of the frame was especially rough. Rounded all other sharp edges.

ALSO REREAD MY PREVIOUS BLOG ENTRY ON CANOPY RESEARCH AND HINTS - Click Here

Time Today - 2 hours

Rear Window and Turtle Deck Skins

On Friday, cleaned up the tank a bit, worked on the wiring extending the two unused wires and were able to coil them in the DB-25 connector. Mounted the two DB-25 connectors. Then, hand sanded the edges of the rear window and drilled the rear window to #27 with the plexi bit very slowly.

MY TURTLE DECK SKINS ARE STILL NOT RIVETED. THINK THIS WAS ONE OF BETTER DECISIONS I HAVE MADE WITH REGARD TO THE CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO REMOVE THEM AT WILL.

Today, drilled the turtle deck skins for the window screws (not in the plans). Then attached the rear window as follows. Attached the rear window to the rollbar with screws working from the top center. Put 5 or 6 screws in the rollbar on each side and then attached the turtle deck skin to the fuselage and tailcone with cleco's. Then worked down the forward part of the window with screws and the aft part of the window with clecos. It worked!

Installed the instrument panel sections. All of this is required to start working on the canopy. I am just about ready to start the canopy.

Time Yesterday and Today - 6 hours