Marty's RV-12

Total Time - 18 Hours

2009-12-04T09:32:00.002-06:00

It is getting very cold here in Iowa. So flying will now be sparse.

Have a total of 18 hours on the RV-12 without any problems. Projects this winter include redo of the fuel tank (I have the "old" sightglass material installed) and exterior paint.

I will most definitely cover up the sight glass holes on the tank and install a mechanical float.

Will post a few pictures after exterior paint and will post pictures of the fuel tank redo effort.

First Flight TODAY!

2009-11-01T15:14:00.004-06:00

N128MS made its maiden flight this morning as the weather was favorable.

Larry Geiger flew from Lincoln, NE in his RV-10 and John Bender from Jessup, IA flew to Davenport in his RV-12. John just completed his Phase I test program. Both assisted with the final inspection and the first flight.

Larry flew my RV-12 first as he has over 2000 hours in all types of RVs including 15 hours in his RV-12. Flew hands off, the stall characteristics were normal at 38 mph (indicated).

Then it was my turn. Flew for about 30 minutes near the airport. The RV-12 flies like a dream. Flew straight and level with absolutely no left or right turning tendency. Responsive yet gentle. This plane is most definitely the easiest plane to land that I have ever flown.

Has been a satisfying day! This first flight was for John! He would have loved it!

Happy!!! Happy!!!

This is a Very Good Source of Weather Info - All on One Page!

2009-10-30T22:10:00.003-05:00

Check out....

Air Sports dot Net

All of the Local Weather and a Forecast on 1 Page!!!

Homemade Engine Pre-Heater-Hope for that 1st Flight on Sunday

2009-10-30T20:50:00.006-05:00

Still waiting for good weather for that 1st flight!!! So, project time!

Here is what I put together for an engine preheater after receiving the temperature controller this afternoon. YES, it is starting to get cold here!!

Had to look a bit for the milkhouse heater, most have two settings (1350 W and 1500 W). This one, from True Value is 600W, 900W or 1500W, I will use the lowest setting.

Bought all of the sheet metal components from Menard's.

The temperature controller is microprocessor based. It is a RANCO ETC-111000-000 Electronic Temperature Controller ($59). It is available on the internet...

Go to........ http://www.rancoetc.com/

You can set any temperature and any differential. I will keep the engine compartment between 60 and 70 degF. All you have to do is stick the thermistor (sensor) in the front opening on the cowl.

Also carved 3 shapes to plug the openings on the front from a gardener's kneeling pad.

The heater has a 3 year warranty, BUT, think I violated the terms!!!!!!!

UPDATE: I replaced the metal flexible duct with a 2' piece of 6" SCAT tubing from Wicks Aircraft. The flexible metal duct was too rigid.

Pictures of the Completed Airplane

2009-10-25T17:58:00.004-05:00

Would look tons better if painted BUT sure is beautiful the way it is!!!!

First flight should occur some time this coming week.

Flying Larry's RV-12

2009-10-24T22:22:00.003-05:00

11 1/2 hours total driving time (both ways) for 3 hours of flying Larry's RV-12. Was it worth it? YES, YES and YES!!!!!

Drove to Lincoln, Nebraska today to fly Larry Geiger's RV-12. Larry has over 2000 hours in the various RV models (RV-3, RV-6A, RV-9A, currently owns an RV-10 and currently owns the RV-12)(Which he has put up for sale!!) Larry, John Bender (Jesup, IA) and I essentially built the planes together and talked either via a phone call or e-mail daily during the build. Larry has completed his Phase I test program. Today, I flew in Larry's RV-12 left seat and Larry flew right seat.

The plane flies like a dream. Unofficially logged 3 hours in the RV-12, slowflight, stalls, about a dozen touch and goes, etc. The RV-12 is MUCH MUCH easier to fly than anything I have flown. Cessna 150/172. Cessna 140 (taildragger). Cherokee 140.

It is SWEET! THANKS LARRY!

Time to fly mine!!

Total Time for the Project

2009-10-23T18:52:00.005-05:00

Total Time - 1121 Hours (For a newbie-builder, Lots of learning time.)

Engine Kit and Final Assembly - 191 Hours
Avionics Kit - 43 Hours
Finish Kit - 290 Hours
Fuselage Kit - 285 Hours
Empennage Kit - 137 Hours
Wing Kit - 175 Hours

Wing Kit Started on August 28, 2008
Final Assembly Completed on October 23, 2009

BUT did NO work in October 2008, November 2008 and July 2009 because I was waiting for the next kit to be announced. This is no longer a problem because all six kits are now available.

SO TOTAL TIME was approximately 13 months.

Final paint will be done professionally, most likely next Spring!!

Final Assembly is NOW Complete

2009-10-23T18:33:00.004-05:00

On Friday afternoon I put the final screw in the cowling. There sure are a lot of screws in the cover plates and access covers. Everything is now together and this thing is ready to fly once we have some better weather. It has been raining for the past two days almost continuously. Wishing now for the "Indian Summer".

Because of the rain, the pictures of the completed plane were taken while the plane was in the hangar. Also included a few pictures from the initial engine run. Yea, Yea....even during the initial engine run you can see that famous "RV Grin"!

More pictures once the weather is better.

Time - 8 hours (PROJECT IS COMPLETE)

Airworthiness Certificate Received for N128MS

2009-10-21T20:38:00.000-05:00

My DAR, Russ Carbiener out of Orion, IL was at the Davenport Airport as promised at 9AM. Russ, was accompanied by two other gentlemen from the FAA Chicago FSDO office. They wanted to observe as this was the first RV-12 for them and one of the first S-LSA/E-LSA inspections for all of them.

After completing the inspection and completing all of the paperwork, I was awarded the airworthiness certificate for the RV-12. I have a Phase I test period with a range of 40 nautical miles excluding the Class C airspace surrounding Quad Cities International with a required 5 hour Phase I test period.

Received compliments on the quality of the construction and the overall quality of the RV-12 kit as supplied by Van's. I think they were impressed with the RV-12.

N128MS IS NOW A REAL AIRPLANE.

Has been a VERY GOOD DAY. My biggest thanks go to Renee and Adam who assisted thru the past 14 months!!!!!

Time to start reassembly.

Transponder and Static System Checks, Final Assembly, Weight and Balance, Fuel Tank Calibration, Initial Engine Run

2009-10-20T20:20:00.000-05:00

On Thursday, October 15, we towed the plane to the maintenance hangar at Carver Aero at Davenport to have the 24 month transponder check performed. They also checked the static system. Entries were made in the avionic log. Will have two logs for the RV-12, an airframe log and an avionics log.

Then the multitude of small jobs were completed on Friday, October 16 thru Tuesday, October 20 in preparation for the inspection scheduled for October 21.

Installed the turtledeck skin. FINALLY! Installed the rear window. Installed the N-numbers, installed the data plate, installed all covers and placed all of the access plates in their positions. Taped a plastic bag of screws over the center of each cover for the weight and balance calculation. Installed the cowling.

Then on Sunday, weighed the RV-12 with the digital scales that Chapter 75 owns. My empty weight (without final paint) was 711 lbs.

Calibrated the fuel tank gauge on Monday, adding 2 gallons at a time until I reached a total of 16 gallons. The Dynon calibration is pretty much self explanatory. Completed all of the Production Acceptance Procedures prior to the Section on Taxi testing.

On Tuesday, ran the Rotax for the first time. All parameters on the EMS/Fuel display were normal. Ran the engine for about 10-15 minutes. Then, prepared for the DAR. Final hangar checks and paperwork.

Time - 26 hours

Final Assembly at the Hangar

2009-10-15T06:34:00.000-05:00

On Friday, moved all of the needed tools to the hangar and then started final assembly. Attached the vertical stab, and then attached the horizontal stab with the counterweight. Took three trys as we (Renee, Adam and I) bumped the superglued washers out of place two times. Will install the rudder on Saturday and then continue.

Time - 3 hours

On Saturday, finished torquing the VS, HS and then installed the rudder. Installed the trim system. Those pesky washers between the brackets and the bearings were a bit difficult to install. Used a bit of superglue. Installed the bearings in the flaperons. Will have to build to wooden box for the rudder pedal install on Sunday and then continue final assembly.

Time - 5 hours

On Sunday, built the wooden box for the rudder pedal install and then went back to the airport to set the link size for the rudder cables per the plans. Utilized the help of a fellow chapter member to stretch the rudder cables tight and then mark them. Removed the links and brought them back home to drill them, prime them and final paint them using the powdercoat color. They rust!

Time - 3 hours

On Monday, installed the rudder pedal links and then tensioned the HS cables using a tensiometer that I had purchased. Set the tension in the cables per the plans and then spent about 1.5 hours installing the safety clips in the turnbuckles. Easier said than done. I am sure glad that I had purchased a few spare clips as I ruined a couple of them trying to get them to seat correctly.

Time - 4 hours

Spent the majority of Tuesday handling the administrative jobs. Took the data plate to the engraver, left the empty weight blank for now as the thing is not painted. Found a label maker for the N Number that will go end up on the tail and found an engraver for the N-number that is required to be placed above the Dynon. Ensure you mark all of the switches that are unused OPTIONS as INOP. Another requirement per the regs.

On Wednesday, John Bender came this morning and we installed the wings for the first time, drilled the torque tubes and adjusted the droop in the flaperon per Section G.2 in the Production Test Procedure.

All control systems now installed!

Sure looks like a plane with the wings installed. And sure is nice to move the stick and flap lever and see all move as it is supposed to.

Going to tow the plane to the FBO maintenance hangar on Thursday morning and have the transponder 24 month check performed. My DAR is REQUIRING the transponder 24 month check prior to airworthiness, as he should.

Still do not have the fuel tank installed. My DAR still has not answered if he wants the fuel tank in or out. The inspection is scheduled for next Wednesday.

Time - 4 hours

Total Time Over the Past Days - 19 hours

How to Keep the Wife Happy Near the End of the RV-12 Build?

2009-10-08T20:03:00.005-05:00

Keep the family happy by moving the plane and the rest of the stuff to the hangar at the airport! It works! Two cars have not been in the garage for quite some time. Her van has been in the driveway for a few months (glad it has been the summer months). Her van now fits, my little Mazda fits, the 3rd bay still has junk in it, and, I must say, just in time, frost is forecasted for this weekend. Today, I winterized the other RV that we have, this one a travel trailer.

Wish the kits were available a bit sooner. Not too much flying weather left here in Iowa.

Plane is at the Airport! Final Assembly is Next!

2009-10-08T18:42:00.006-05:00

Over the past few days, continued to work on odds and ends.

Installed the fuel tank and glued the fuel tank spout to the turtle deck skin. I used silicone grease on the turtle deck skin and after a 4 day cure time, the spout came off of the skin rather easily.

I trimmed the rear window where is abutts the canopy when it is closed. I have a gap between the canopy and the rear window that approximates the gap in the rollbar. To trim the rear window I used two 2x4's screwed together to form a 90 degree jig. Then clamped the 6' jig to the workbench. Sandwiched the rear window between the jig and another 2x4. Clamped the sandwich together. Used the belt sander to get close to the line and then used a board with 80 grit paper. Finished the edge with 120, then 180 then 400 grit paper.

Moved all to the airport in a friends hotrod car hauler. It is about 21' long and 82.5" wide at the wheelwells. The width was tight but the plane's wheels just squeezed in between the trailer wheelwells. The wings were transported in their cradle and then a 2nd trip took the fuselage to the airport.

Installed all of the instrument panel labels per Section 50 of the plans.

Also made a trip to John Bender's hangar and spent a day with him, installing the wings, weighing the plane, starting the engine for the first time after adding oil, and updating his Dynon.

Time - 6 hours

Working on Odds and Ends

2009-10-02T15:53:00.002-05:00

Installed the canopy latch plates. Completed the installation of the throttle and choke cables. Torqued the exhaust manifolds. Installed the EGT probes. Tidied up the engine compartment adding ty-wraps where necessary. Safety wired the engine magnetic plug. Safety wired the engine oil tank drain. Attached the brackets to the HS after fabricating a couple of spacers.

Three major jobs left before the plane goes to the hangar. Temporary installation of the fuel tank and gluing the fuel tank spout to the turtle deck skin with fuel tank sealant. Trimming of the lexan rear window. Riveting the turtle deck skins and installation of the rear window.

It truly was a good move leaving the turtle deck skins and the rear window OFF until the very end.

Also spent a bit of time getting the old hangar cleaned up.

Time - 6 hours

Engine Controls and Revised Canopy Latch Plates

2009-09-28T22:34:00.004-05:00

Did really nothing on Saturday. On Sunday and Monday, I fitted the new canopy latch and then started the installation of the engine controls. Was kind of difficult getting the cables thru the grommet in the firewall. The grommet wanted to dislodge itself. Would have been easier to lube the cables but the plans for some reason tell us not to do it. I am short one nut that secures the throttle cable to the carb bracket. Will look for it on Tuesday.

Down to odds and ends.

Time Sunday and Monday - 6 hours

Installed HS, Completed the Tailcone Fairing, Installed the Trim System, Lower Cowling Trimmed for Exhaust, Trimmed Exhaust Pipe

2009-09-25T22:51:00.002-05:00

Over the past few days, I mounted the HS and was thus able to align the tailcone fairing. Drilled the holes in the fairing and the tailcone for the nutplates.

I had to remove about 1/8" of material from the HS skin at the aft end of the tailcone fairing. The plans want 1/8" between the HS skin and the tailcone fairing.

Fabricated the trim motor bracket and installed the trim motor and checked its operation. I have a problem setting the speed of the trim motor to the specification in the plans. More on this below. Also had to do a bit more sanding on the slot in the fairing as the trim rod was closer than 1/8" to the fairing.

Removed the HS and drilled the rivet attach holes for the nutplates and riveted them to the tailcone. 3 full days, about 22 hours to complete the tailcone fairing work.

Also, attached the lower cowl and checked the exhaust pipe fit. I had to open up the hole as the pipe was not centered. Then marked and cut the exhaust pipe to 4".

Trim Motor Issue as Posted on VAF. Hope to find a solution, soon!!

"Problem-Setting Trim/Servo Motor Speed"

The fastest trim speed I can obtain at a battery voltage of 12.3 VDC (as measured with a DVM at the battery) is 40 seconds (stop to stop). This is with the potentiometer at its stop. The trim motor merely buzzes with the pot fully in the other direction. The plans call for a min speed of 30 seconds at 12.0 VDC. The trim motor sounds as though it is laboring (wha-wha sound).

ANYONE else having this problem?? Has anyone solved the problem??

I measured the resistance of white wire and the white/red wire (power to the motor) from the tail to the 37 pin connector behind the panel and each is 0.9 ohms. So the wires and all crimps are good.

I have attached a battery charger and with a battery voltage of 13.8 VDC (at the battery), the trim speed is 31 seconds.

I have measured the DC voltage at the running servo with a DVM. The voltage is 5.0 VDC. From another post, I understand that the control panel board produces a pulse width modulation signal. A lower voltage is to be expected as the DVM is measuring an average of the chopped signal. I do not have a scope to view the waveform.

With the trim motor attached to a DC power supply, the trim motor speed is 12.0 seconds at 12.0 VDC and 10.0 seconds at 13.8 VDC.

I have talked to support at Van's and they have acknowledged others are having the same issue, but, could not suggest any other testing other than replacing the switch panel.

Has anyone replaced the switch panel and obtained better results??

Do the servos vary? Has anyone replaced the servo and obtained better results?

Time Over the Past Few Days - 24 hours

Vertical Stab, Rudder. Tailcone Fairing

2009-09-22T20:45:00.000-05:00

On Monday, fabricated the fairings for the vertical stabilizer and the rudder and riveted them. Before mounting the vertical stabilizer to the tailcone, I attached the rudder and checked for any interference. (This was the subject of a VAF post). Had an interference on top at the fairings and the left VS skin hit the rudder skin when the rudder was full left. Had to take about 1/32" off of the aft left side VS skin and some off the VS fairing at the interference. Mounted the VS and rudder on the tailcone.

On Tuesday, started the tailcone fairing. A lot of cutting and sanding. All went well and am about 75% complete. Will have to mount the HS on Wednesday to set the final alignment of the fairing and check the clearances.

Time Yesterday and Today - 13 hours

Wedding Rehearsal & Dinner on Friday--Wedding on Saturday

2009-09-20T14:24:00.004-05:00

Very little RV-12 work is planned for Friday, Saturday and Sunday.

One of my daughters, Heather was married this weekend. Everything went VERY well. Heather and my wife Renee did a phenomenal job at planning the entire affair. Heather and Brendan (who works at Boeing in Seattle as an aero engineer) were very happy and all had a good time.

The wedding reception at the Davenport Country Club was just something else.

Spinner, Oil Lines, Then the Exhaust System

2009-09-18T13:59:00.001-05:00

Over the past 4 days, I installed the spinner, installed the oil lines and then installed the exhaust system.

The alignment of the spinner and then attaching the nutplates and attaching the inserts took me 2 days. A lot of fitting, sanding to get all of the parts to fit.

Installed the oil lines, but, may change them again, because the oil line that runs to the left side of the oil radiator is rubbing against the crankshaft sensor at the rear of the engine. I do not think that is a good idea.

RTV'd the gasket material to the inside of the cowling opposite of the coolant radiator.

Installed the cowling to ensure all parts fit. Getting the cowling on this time was a bit more difficult because you have to compress the gasket material at the coolant radiator. Was happy for now with the spinner to cowl fit. It is perfectly concentric. The minimum gap is 0.060" which should be OK for now. Scott McDaniels indicated that 0.060" was a good starting point. A bit more can be removed from the aft end of the spiiner and plate if need be.

Removed the cowling and installed the exhaust system.

Also removed the fuel tank flange (the one with the bad threads) from the tank, fished out the 6 rivet heads and installed the new fuel tank flange. Used a very thin putty knife to pry the old flange off of the tank. Had another dose of sealant again!! Love that sealant!

Time Over the Past Days - 24 hours

Pitot Tube Installation, Completed the Electrical Installation, Spinner Trimming, Fuel Hoses, Prop Installation, Heater Door and Cable

2009-09-14T16:52:00.002-05:00

Pitot Tube Installation, Completed the Electrical Installation, Spinner Trimming, Fuel Hoses, Prop Installation, Heater Door and Cable

It is getting harder and harder to keep the log up to date. Over the past days fabricated and installed the pitot tube at the front of the engine. The plans tell you to screw the pitot tube into the plastic block to a measurement of 1.5". The pitot tube bottoms out in the plastic block at a dimension of about 1.25". Screwing it in any further would damage the threads in the plastic block. The tip of the pitot tube will then end up, 0.25" more forward.

Received a care package from Van's containing some of the missing spage lugs and barrel connectors. As such, I was able to complete the electrical installation. It is nice being able to turn on the master switch, the avionics switch and watch everything come to life.

Trimmed the spinner to the scribe line. I had two scribe lines on the aft edge of the spinner. Scott told me to trim to the most forward scribe line making the spinner the shortest if it was sitting upright on the table. This worked very well. One caution, when making the cuts for the prop on the spinner, cut right down the middle of the scribe line. As such, the filler pieces you will make out of this scrap will be large enough.

Received the VA-215 fuel hose in another care package. Installed it on top of the banjo fitting. It runs to the fuel pressure sensor and the fuel return line.

Installed the prop per the Sensenich prop manual. The drawing in the plans is not quite accurate as it does not portray the bushings that have to be inserted into the prop flange on the engine.

Then worked on the heater door. When cutting the sheath on the cable, the plans tell you to trim it to a dimension of 2 27/32". Dry fit the components here. The sheath has to remain inside the F-1210 rod when the heater door is fully closed. My final cut was at a dimension of 3.1" to 3.2". Cut the sheath with a cutoff wheel in the Dremel.

Then I HAD to check the fit between the cowl and the spinner. It really does fit very well. Have a slightly tighter gap on top than the bottom.

And took a day off from the build for some flying at the Davenport airport!!

Time Over the Past Days - 26 hours

Fuel Pump Problem, Set ALL Audio Levels, Brakes Bled, Cooling Duct Fabrication and Fiberglass

2009-09-09T23:04:00.013-05:00

Over the past few days, I fabricated and fiberglassed the cooling duct attached to the lower cowl and detoured for a day to solve an electrical problem, my fuel pump did not work.

First, the fuel pump problem. Mine did not work when I powered up the electrical system (with the voltage regulator UNPLUGGED). (There is another problem related to the voltage regulator/rectifier as 2 fellow builders have observed smoke coming from the regulator/rectifier when they powered up the electrical system.) With regard to my fuel pump problem, with the assistance of John Bender, we determined one of the wires in the 37 pin tunnel harness connector was in the wrong position. The pin was in position 30 and it should have been inserted into position 29. This problem was confirmed by Stein via a post on the VAF forum. The early harnesses were mis-wired in this manner. The subsequent harnesses should be OK.

Since I was now implanted in the electrical mode, decided to check the rest of the electronics and electrical system. All seems to function normally. Adjusted all of the audio level potentiometers on the rear side of the switch panel in accordance with the plans. The only potentiometer left to be set is the pot for trim speed. It is hidden under the Dynon. Getting a screwdriver on this pot requires partial removal of the left panel section. Otherwise there is NO way to get a screwdriver on the potentiometer. (This was confirmed by a couple of fellow builders). The left panel section MUST be raised a bit and/or the upper part of the panel tilted aft. Then you can get at the pot with a screwdriver.

Then started working on the cooling duct. Trimmed the cooling duct and its adapter to the scribe line. Then after trimming it, and re-fitting it to the lower cowl a number of times, the cooling duct was cleco'ed in place. The adapter is to fit 0.25" from the face of the coolant radiator. Two days of work.

Today, I bled the brake lines in the morning (used the bottom up method with a hand pump oiler at the bleed valve, used Aeroshell 31), went flying in the early afternoon and then fiberglassed the cooling duct and the adapter to the lower cowl. Everything, including the upper cowl was then installed on the airframe. Such allows the fiberglass to cure to the correct shape.

Time Over the Past 4 Days - 27 hours (includes 8 hours to troubleshoot and correct the fuel pump problem)

Continued with the Engine Installation

2009-09-05T21:50:00.004-05:00

Over the past few days, fabricated and installed the heater door, the coolant radiator, the oil tank and the coolant overflow tank. The plans seem to be OK here. Then started to look at the frame that sets around the oil cooler radiator. The plans here are VERY poor.

If you do not want to get frustrated, be VERY CAREFUL when following the plans on page 49-09 & 49-10. They may be partially correct BUT the descriptors used are not consistent, which increases the confusion level to the maximum.

Dry fit all of the components and then mark which hole has to be C/S and which hole has to be dimpled. The rivets have to be flush adjacent to the oil cooler AND the rivets have to be flush where they contact the fiberglass cooling shroud.

I read the plans initially, and marked which side had to be C/S or dimpled and STILL got it wrong. I am so glad I read ahead here.

Dry fit the components, mark each hole and the side of the hole that has to be C/S or dimpled and READ AHEAD.

These two plan pages are POOR!!!

Time over the Past Days - 16 hours

Engine Hung!

2009-09-02T21:06:00.006-05:00

Yesterday, I glued the cooling shroud to the engine using grey sensor safe high temperature RTV. Looks better than the Red RTV and is rated to the same temperature. Then reassembled the engine components that were removed the day before. Then, removed each of the carbs and attached the drip pan under each carb after riveting them and sealing the bend holes with fuel tank sealant. The drip pan MUST be for "drips" but seems to also shield the carb from the exhaust manifold.

This afternoon, I drilled the lower engine mounts to 3/8". Slow going, even with brand new cobalt drills. Deburred the holes and was ready to put the engine hoist to work. With the help of a couple of chapter members, hung the engine on the plane. It helped to have 6 hands for the engine installation. Two of the hands belonging to my son, Adam, who again, crawled in the cabin to tap and hold the engine bolts.

The engine sure looks small mounted to the firewall as opposed to it being on the workbench.

Time Yesterday and Today - 10 hours

Working on the Engine Kit

2009-08-31T17:11:00.007-05:00

Time to update the builders log. Started on the engine kit. Have spent three days so far. WOW, a lot to cover.

Section 45 of the plans has you mount the battery, the master relay, the starter relay, the fuel pressure sensor, the manifold pressure sensor, and the rectifier/regulator to the firewall. All went well. Had to drill out the nutplates for the F-1201S battery channel and re-rivet with the correct nutplates. The plans have changed here. Different size nutplates are required. An adapter plate is required to mount the starter relay. Ensure you follow the plans, with respect to the adapter plate. It can be attached two different ways. If you mount the adapter plate and starter relay to far right the P154 wire is NOT long enough. (Learned the hard way!!)

I am missing the firewall forward wiring harness (backorder), so I was not able to complete this section. Will complete the section after I receive the back ordered parts. It is amazing how many steps have to skipped without this one wiring harness.

IF the missing harness was received, I would have been able to fire up the ENTIRE panel and make the required adjustments to the level potentiometers for the intercom, etc. Sigh!~!

Then started Section 46, Engine Installation.

I have to compliment Van's. The plans for the engine installation are Excellent. Follow them to the T and are will be OK. The plans have you to partially disassemble the engine. The ignition modules are removed, the spark plug wires are removed, a clamp is removed (that allows for installation of the motor mount), and the cooling hose/expansion tank assembly is removed. The plans then call for cutting one of the lugs on the starter motor. Again, that allows for installation of the motor mount.

Then it was time for more fiberglass work. The cooling shroud has to be fitted to the engine. This took quite a bit of time. One has to attach the cooling shroud and then make the required adjustments. Used the Dremel here and ended up with a gap of less than 1/16" between the engine and the shroud. Think I attached and removed the cooling shroud about 50 times. There IS a scribe line on the inner surface. Think if I removed the material to the scribe line or near it, fitting and re-fitting would of taken much less time. I do not know why the plans don't tell you to trim to the line on the onset.

With the cooling shroud fitted, it was time for the engine mount. See the photos. Was able to support the engine and attach the engine mount using the engine lift and ideas from John Bender. Used the shipping bracket (reversed) to stabilize the front of the engine. This again took a bit of time. The sequence shown in the plans does work!! Now, have to find a torque wrench that goes to 350 in-lbs before I can glue the cooling shroud down. It covers one of the engine attach bolts. Will use grey RTV here, it is also high temperature, is sensor safe and good to 650 degF (just like the red stuff). It will look much better.

Time Over the Past 3 Days - 18 hours

Engine Kit Arrived Today

2009-08-28T18:57:00.004-05:00

The engine kit arrived and I performed the inventory. There were a couple of parts back-ordered. All arrived in great shape. Think Van's tried a new company (DB Sheckner), service was GREAT and the shipping was about $150 less than a similar shipments (size/weight) via ABF Freight.

Also received the documentation package today via US Mail allowing me to register the RV-12 with the FAA. Neat!

Wheel/Tire Balancing

2009-08-26T19:40:00.000-05:00

Reattached the nosegear and then balanced the nosegear wheel and tire using a motorcycle balancing stand that I purchased at Harbor Freight. Added some self adhesive balancing weights. Did the same with the left main wheel and the right main wheel. The left main was terribly out of balance. The right main not so much so.

Attached the wheels and then tightened them in accordance with the instructions from MATCO. This is DIFFERENT than one would expect. MATCO says to hand tighten and then TIGHTEN to the next cotter pin hole (even tho the wheel does not run free). This is to prevent the seal from spining. Did it and inserted the cotter pin. You have to put a nice sweeping bend in the pin to get it started in the hole. Re-assembled the brake calipers.

Here is a link to a VAF post explaining why you tighten these bearings DIFFERENTLY

Time Today - 4 hours

Firewall Sealant

2009-08-24T23:05:00.004-05:00

Removed the cowling and nosegear and then applied the CS1900 firewall sealant. The sealant sure is thick, like the consistency of rubber. In accordance with the data sheet, I thinned it with a ketone (acetone). Took a lot of mixing. Applied the sealant with a refillable caulking tube (from West Marine). This worked relatively well. Applied the sealant to each of the rivets with an animal syringe. This worked OK, but would of worked a little better is I had thinned the sealant even more. Used a bunch of Popsicle sticks.

When it got dark, I checked the firewall by placing a droplight behind the firewall. Found 2 spots and filled them with some sealant.

Time Today - 3 hours

Reworked the Radio Trays Today

2009-08-22T20:27:00.007-05:00

A few days back when I installed the radios the first time, I had a devil of a time getting the transponder to seat in its tray. I finally got it in and correctly seated after playing with it.

It was very, very hard to install the transponder. The comm radio was a little better but something was clearly amiss.

I posted my question on the VAF forums and received a number of replies. In fact, Stein called me and told me to try a few things.

Using their guidance, because I was not satisfied, I spent the day disassembling the radio stack. When I finally removed the VHF radio and the transponder and examined them, it was obvious why, they were so hard to install or remove. There were rub marks on the side of both near the faceplate. Both were rubbing on the protrusions (caused by stamping the lightening holes) on both the left and right stack angles (F-1202J-R/L).

I used a punch and a hammer and carefully bent the protrusions back. Then filed them flat with a vixen file and primed all of my scratch marks. With the trays not yet installed I was then able to slip both the transponder and the comm radio thru the panel without any side rubbing. (This was with the trays removed).

I also filed a small notch (1/8" deep) immediately below the transponder in the panel for cam clearance. Reinstalled the trays and used four 0.025" shims on each side on the comm radio tray as it is about 0.050-0.060" narrower than the transponder.

Inserted the transponder and it slid right in. Same for the comm radio. Both were sucked right in to their final position using the cam.

Stein was right, in that, one should be able to remove the radios with finger pressure if everything is aligned.

The protrusions in the stack angles were most definitely the major contributor to my original problem.

Thanks Stein, and the rest that replied to my original question on the VAF forum. Problem solved!!

Time Today - 6 hours

ELT is Installed

2009-08-19T18:58:00.005-05:00

Installed the bracket for the ELT and then the ELT itself. Did all I can do as the ELT antenna bracket is on back-order. As such, the installation of the avionics is complete and it took me 5 very short days. The RV-12 kt is truly amazing!! Five or so days for avonics.....Hmmmmm......WOW!! About 30 hours. Double WOW!!

Time - 3 hours

Panel is Complete - Need to Install the ELT

2009-08-18T21:10:00.003-05:00

The day before yesterday, I played with the GPS panel opening. Sanded the opening for a while and then decided, to make the GPS removable, the opening would have to be so large, it would be unsightly. As such, the only way to remove my GPS 496 is to remove the top instrument panel and then loosen/remove the GPS mounting screws. As always, it is give and take. Playing with the GPS opening work took me about 6 hours.

Today, installed the GPS, intercom interface and then the ELT inteface. Had to go to the hardware store for some screws for the ELT panel as the ones supplied were far from being acceptable.

Will install the ELT body on Wednesday. Should take me about 2 hours.

It is just amazing that the installation of the avionics ONLY takes a few days!!

Time - 14 hours

Engine Kit is on Order

2009-08-11T22:49:00.003-05:00

Today, Van's announced the availability of the powerplant kit for the RV-12. Mine is on order. $25K.......ouch!

The good news is this is the FINAL kit!

Working on the Avionics

2009-08-11T22:14:00.005-05:00

The first day I was at Oshkosh, I received a call from Van's and then a call from SteinAir. Was there 1 week before the show started. Both were ready to ship the avionics to me. I had to tell them to hold the kits until I got home. Last week I received both shipments but home duties prevailed and was unable to begin the avionics until this week. Started yesterday. Two days into the install.

The avionics installation has been relatively straightforward. The plans are rather good. Section 42 is 18 pages of step by step plans.

Yesterday I attempted to install the switch panel but found out 3 nutplates had to be removed as the panel would not fit. The nutplates interfered with the standoffs on the lower edge of the switch panel. A plans revision was issued, while I was on vacation, that tells you to leave the 3 nutplates out, so such should not be a problem for future builders. A nifty fuseholder was then attached to the inner door of the mapbox.

Fitted and installed the Dynon mounting tray to the left panel section. The mounting tray was far from being square. Check it, and bend it square, before installing!

Today, I installed the backup battery in the Dynon (not in the plans, but, steps are in Appendix G of the Dynon installation manual. Had to fire in up for a minute to see if all worked......it did! Then attached the wiring between the Dynon and the switch panel. Attached the static line to the Dynon.

Before I installed the transponder bracket, I noticed that 3 nutplates were not installed on the instrument panel shelf, directly below the transponder. After another quick call, I determined that the nutplates were indeed necessary and should of been installed previously. The plans will be corrected. Three AN-3 or 10-32 nutplates are required here for the throttle, choke and cabin heat cables. Install them now, otherwise the transponder will have to come out later and a pair of long forceps and a lot of bad words will be required to complete the installation.

Then installed the mounting bracket for the transponder. Slow going as the screws are hard to get to. Had to go to the hardware store to buy an offset phillips screwdriver. Then attempted to seat the transponder in the mounting bracket. It was a bear but finally got it to go in. Had to use a mirror under the unit to try to figure out what the lower cam was doing. A 3/32" allen wrench is required here. Such is not specified in the plans or in the transponder manual. Had to call Garmin.

Next was the installation of the comm radio mounting bracket. Before installing this bracket, ensure the coaxial antenna cable is bolted to the bracket as it will be impossible to install after the bracket is bolted in place. The installation of the Garmin comm radio followed. Installing it is its bracket was much easier than installing the transponder. The same 3/32" allen wrench is required.

Just finished page 42-09 of the plans. Section 42 (18 pages long) comprises the avionics installation. 50% done??

Total Time Yesterday and Today - 20 hours

Photos From Oshkosh 2009

2009-08-06T17:17:00.003-05:00

I uploaded my photos from Oshkosh 2009. Click on the links to view the Picassa albums. Enjoy! Can't wait till Oshkosh 2010. Note that the autopilot is installed by looking carefully at the panel picture.

Photos of Van's RV-12 at Oshkosh 2009

The Rest of My Photos from Oshkosh 2009

Back from OSH09

2009-08-04T22:59:00.005-05:00

Back home!!!! Spent 16 days in OSH. Got there a week before the show to just relax! Kind of fun watching it all come together, visiting the local attractions including all of the WI wineries, and, watching all come apart. VERY nice to see Larry, Don and Joe this year. Visit DOOR County!! Lots to see. Pictures to follow. Nice to meet all of the UCAP guys, the MyTransponder guys and all of the fellow RV-12 builders. 16 days goes too fast. Can't wait till OSH10. No RV-12's other than the RED demo. Bet there will be a bunch of RV12's at OSH10!

Waiting for the Avionics Kit to Arrive

2009-07-13T23:06:00.003-05:00

Just about out of work. Need a few rivets (4) for the fuel tank flange that has to be replaced (they are coming) and then will have to wait for the next kit! As such, no updates for a while. Sent my check for the balance for the avionics kit today. Think, Van's wants to see the check before they send the avionics to me!!! It's too bad that we will have to wait for the engine kit to fire up the electronics. The battery will be coming with the engine kit, at least, that is my understanding.

Odds and Ends - Finish Kit

2009-07-10T17:20:00.003-05:00

Odds and Ends, Thursday. Reapplied the 1st layer of black tape on the canopy and applied a layer of pure epoxy. One layer should be enough for now, will let the paint shop deal with any required filler and finishing to make it perrrrrfect!

Worked on the magnets and the reed switches. Could not make the originally supplied bracket/magnets/reed switches to work reliably, even though I cut off 1/8" of the shield. Removed/Drilled out the originally supplied brackets, primed, then painted the new brackets. With the old brackets, continuity was marginal. With the new brackets, it should be OK. Epoxied the magnets in the cylinders.

Odds and Ends, Friday. Did a bit of sanding on the canopy fiberglass and removed the layer of black tape. Any further fiberglass finishing will be left to the experts. Attached the canopy and found I had to remove just a bit more from the forward tips to install the gas struts. Installing the struts was a bit difficult due to the clearances, but doable. Installed the canopy latch and installed the canopy guide blocks. Will have to touch up the rollbar.

Then installed the new brackets for the wing pin magnets and reed switches and wired the switches. The reed switches now work as they should.

Time on Thursday & Friday - 9 hours

Total Time to Date - Finishing Kit is Just About Complete - Ready for the Avionics and Then the Engine Kit

2009-07-08T18:10:00.009-05:00

The avionics kit is on order. Then, back to finish up some of the steps I passed by in the finishing kit.

Even though there were a few parts problems and plans problems for the lead builders of the finishing kit (all now resolved), I am so happy with the engineering of the RV-12 finish kit I could cry!! All of the parts have fit just perfectly. My thanks to Van's and all involved.

For those of you still sitting on the fence, jump off and get the first kit. You will not be sorry.

Total Time to Date - 269 Hours on the Finish Kit (90% Complete), 279 Hours on the Fuselage Kit (98% Complete), 108 Hours on the Empennage Kit (85% Complete), 175 Hours on the Wing Kit (100% Complete) = 831 hours

Cowling is Complete

2009-07-08T16:04:00.002-05:00

Attached the final hardware for the oil door and inserted the cotter pins. Match drilled the bottom cowl to the bottom close-out bracket and match drilled the bottom cowl to the bottom nutplates. Will let the paint shop sand the gaps to whatever is desired (~1/32") and seal the pinholes.

The cowling is complete! Hooooray!

Time Today - 2 hours

More Cowling

2009-07-07T17:07:00.001-05:00

On Monday, removed the top and bottom cowls. Labeled the hinge half's. Then found it easier to countersink all of the #40 holes with the cowls removed. The front holes will get nutplates so you do not countersink the forward 6 holes on the front.

Riveted the hinges to the top cowling and the bottom cowling. Reassembled all. The hinge pins went in pretty good. All went together rather well.

On Tuesday, attached the 8 nutplates to the front of the bottom cowl. Then started to work on the oil door. A seemingly simple job took quite a bit of time. Fabricated and deburred the metal door and the hinge parts. Then cut the hole in the top cowl following a suggestion via Larry Geiger. Do not cut to the upper scribe line (edge at the hinge line) BUT leave a good 1/8"-3/16" to the scribe line. You can always remove more later, if needed. I used the reinforced cutting disk in the Dremel.

Attached the CAMLOC fasteners, drilling the hole in the top cowl to 7/16".

Match drilled the hinge parts and riveted the hinge half to the top cowl and the hinge half and doubler to the metal oil door. Attached the hardware and the oil door would NOT open. The top of the metal oil door interfered with the indentation edge in the top cowl fiberglass. Some of the material at the top of the oil door needed to be removed. (This is the reason for leaving the 1/8" of fiberglass at the upper scribe line. It is not possible to remove enough metal from the oil door without creating a gap if the fiberglass is cut to the scribe line). It now works!!

Time Yesterday and Today - 10 hours

Ordered the Avionics Kit this Evening

2009-07-06T22:11:00.002-05:00

The avionics kit contains the following:

1. Customer’s choice of Garmin 296, 396, 495 or 496 GPS with choice of database. I chose the 496.
2. Dynon FlightDEK D180 electronic flight information system/engine monitor
3. Garmin SL-40 com radio
4. Garmin GTX-327 Transponder
5. Artex ME406 ELT
6. Flightcom 403 stereo intercom
7. All necessary installation components and materials. Includes the switch panel, fuse panel and all interfaces.

Should be PLUG and PLAY!!!!!!

All for $13420.00

That leaves the engine kit and all is then procured.

Finished Drilling the Cowling

2009-07-05T17:36:00.002-05:00

Have spent about 4 hours over the past 4 days working on the cowling. No problems, just taking it easy. Finished all of the drilling, the countersinking of all of the #40 holes is next. No problems following the plans. Will have to sand the top cowling edge just a bit where needed.

Time Over Two Days - 4 hours

Cowling Continues

2009-07-01T19:15:00.008-05:00

On Tuesday I started working on the cowling again. Took me the majority of the day to cut all of hinges, mark all of them and to bevel the hinge half's on the fuselage. Used a file and then the sanding disk in the die grinder. At this time, no holes are drilled in the hinges. They are drilled in place, much like the way the forward canopy frame tube was drilled to the plexiglass. Thought I would not be able to see the marks through the translucent cowling, but, they show rather well.

Had some difficulty in inserting the hinge pins after bending them to shape and doing a bit of fluting on the hinge half. The easiest way I found to flute was to watch the gap between the eyelets of the two hinge half's. After fluting the gap became consistent.

Called Larry Geiger and he suggested wetting the hinge pin with WD-40. After sharpening the hinge pin and applying the WD-40, the pins went in much easier.

Today I fitted the bottom cowl to the fuselage and found a bit a sanding was required to get a good fit. There were a few areas where I did not sand quite to the scribe line and there were a few places where I had to remove maybe a 1/64"-1/32" to get a good fit. Then fitted the top cowl and again found a bit of sanding was required. Had to remove just a bit on the aft edge of the top cowl near its center. Used some duct tape to fasten the top cowl. The fit all the way around looks pretty good. Will drill the bottom cowl tomorrow. A little more sanding on the aft center edge of the top cowl may be required to close the top cowl side gaps.

UPDATE: If I did this again, I would not sand the aft edge of the top cowl until the lower cowl side hinge is cleco'd and you are ready to drill the left and right top cowl aft hinges. The bottom cowl moves a little when the bottom hinge is attached.

Time Yesterday and Today - 7 hours

No Airplane Building the Past Few Days

2009-06-28T16:28:00.012-05:00

Family stuff!! Was out of town on Thursday, Renee's birthday was on Friday and our two girls were back in town for Heather's bridal shower this weekend. In the photo, Heather is top center and Megan is top right. I did get a belated Father's Day present which I promptly and proudly hung up in the hanger (garage).

Heather heads back to Seattle on Tuesday, so then will be able to get back to the canopy and cowling.

Trimmed the Canopy Forward Tip

2009-06-24T10:41:00.001-05:00

Trimmed the forward tip of the canopy near the pivot bolt for clearance. Used the sandpaper flapper in the die grinder and the flat sandpaper blocks. I had to remove and reinstall the canopy about three times to get the clearances correct. Also rounded out the pivot bolt hole with a small sanding drum in the Dremel. Mixed a batch of pure epoxy and coated the foam at the pivot bolt hole. Mixed some epoxy/flox and filled the void under the glass at the tip where the foam broke on me forward of the pivot bolt hole on the one side.

Time Today - 3 hours

Canopy Removal and Fiberglass Trimming

2009-06-23T21:42:00.003-05:00

Used a Wilton cake frosting knife, very thin and flexible to break the bond between the fiberglass and the clear celephane tape. You can see the air bubble grow as you work the knife under the surface.

Cut the fiberglass over the bolt hole using the Dremel and a variety of bits. The very thin cheap abrasive bits worked the best as they did not grab the edges of the bolt. They really don't have a cutting edge on them, just some diamond abrasive. Cut just enough to get the socket over the head of the bolt. Will have to round it out after removal. Took about 1.5 hrs for both bolts. Hold the Dremel with two hands, it will want to jump on you. Removed the two pivot bolts. They will have to be replaced as the grinding marked up the heads a bit.

Thought removal of the canopy was going to be a chore but it came off VERY easily. No pops, crackles or squeaks. The wax I used worked!! Lifted the aft end about an inch on both sides, Renee assisting. Then slid the canopy aft until there was clearance near the forward tips and lifted the assembly up and off. Put the canopy on the workbench.

Marked the center line of the canopy by merely connecting the lines on the left and the right with a straightedge.

Then used the tools as shown in the photo to sand to the line. Left a little more more material below the canopy skirt line, for the first cut.

Reinstalled the canopy to recheck and remark the canopy skirt line. More sanding on Wednesday. Have the canopy skirt line, the bolt holes and the forward tips to do.

Time Today - 6 hours

A Good Day at the Airplane Factory

2009-06-22T23:26:00.005-05:00

Mounted the nosegear this morning. Used a fish scale to set the tension of the swivel. Worked well and the new nosegear assembly received from Van's fit very well. The plane is now on all three wheels. Neat!!

Then worked a bit on the fit between the lower cowl and the upper cowl. Put them together, drilled, then cleco'd the inboard hole per the plans. Then cutout the nosegear slot, the gascolator hole and the exhaust oval. (At least that is what I think the additional holes in the lower cowl will be used for.) Used a small sanding drum in the die grinder, after cutting the rough shape using the reinforced cutoff disks in the Dremel, it worked well. Hand sanded to the line. Lots of dust!

Then marked the canopy fiberglass for the final cut. Found the pivot bolt hole was NOT exactly in the position per the template. The center of the pivot bolt was OK vertically but was 3/32" aft of the position as the template suggested. MARK the position of the center of the pivot bolt before you start glassing so you know where it is.

Cleaned the shop and put away a bunch of tools.

Time Today - 7 hours

High Winds, Lost a Tree, Blue Angels

2009-06-19T23:12:00.001-05:00

Had some strong winds late afternoon on Friday. Lost a tree in the yard. Straight line winds of 70-80 MPH. But got to see the Blue Angels flying over the house practicing for the airshow on Saturday and Sunday.

Bottom Cowl, Nosegear Assembly Back from Van's

2009-06-19T19:26:00.001-05:00

Spent Thursday and Friday working on the bottom cowl section. Found some REINFORCED cut off disks for the Dremel and they worked so much better. A lot of sanding with some 60-80 grit sandpaper to sand to the line. Found out that I had 2 scribe lines on the right half of the lower cowl. Sanded to the upper mark. Fitted the upper and lower cowl sections together and found that I have to do a bit of match sanding to do to get a tight fit. The Quad Cities airshow is on Saturday and Sunday. Will take Adam to see the Blue Angels.

Received the replacement nosegear assembly from Van's. Will install it.

Time Thursday and Friday - 6 hours

Started the Cowling-More Canopy Sanding

2009-06-17T19:03:00.007-05:00

Sanded my 2nd coat of micro this morning and still found some low spots and pits. Filled them with a 3rd coat of epoxy and microballoons. More canopy fiberglass sanding on Thursday.

Then prepared the top cowling per the plans. Used a die grinder with a cutoff wheel and the Dremel with a cutoff disk to trim and remove the required material to within 1/8" of the scribe line. Be careful when using the die-ginder and a large cutoff wheel. It is hard to go around a curve without going over the line. Then used a vixen file and a sanding block with 80 grit paper to sand to the line. Lots of dust. WEAR safety glasses and a dust mask!! Also the Dremel cutoff disks break easily. (One of the disk pieces hit my safety glasses!!) Prep of the top cowling piece took me 4 hours.

Time Today - 6 hours

A Very Nice N-Number Search Engine

2009-06-17T09:10:00.001-05:00

Found a very nice N-number search engine. Much better than the one on the FAA website.

N-Number Search Engine

Then Reserve Your N-Number Here on the FAA website

RV White Pages

2009-06-17T09:05:00.002-05:00

The RV White Pages (RVWP) are quite useful for finding those folks passionate about *your* model and for networking with those folks that live near you that also might have a RV project in the garage! ADD YOUR NAME!!!

RV White Pages

Add/Edit Your RV White Page Entry

Sanding and More Micro

2009-06-16T18:27:00.007-05:00

Spent about 4 hours yesterday sanding the filler. I think I removed 80-90% of it. Used a variety of flat blocks and formed the curve between the dash and the canopy with some sandpaper attached with spray adhesive to a 6 inch length of 3" PVC pipe. I tried to work slow and not remove too much of the filler. You want to be careful with the 3" PVC pipe because you can easily go too deep and form a valley.

I was able to determine where more sanding was needed by running my finger on the surface. Was able to detect much more this way, rather than relying on the eye.

All in all, the shape ended up well. But, even though I put this first layer of micro on quite thick, to avoid multiple layers of micro, another application will be necessary to fill some low spots and some pockets in the surface (maybe caused by some small air bubbles). Will circle the spots that need additional fill with a pencil and fill just those areas.

Filled the low areas today with micro. More sanding on Wednesday.

Time Yesterday and Today - 5 hours

Canopy Continued - Microballoon Filler

2009-06-14T18:32:00.006-05:00

Did a little more sanding on the fiberglass to remove the high areas and then scuffed the entire surface with corase grit sandpaper where I would be adding the filler to the areas that were low.

I first did the left side and then the right side.

Mixed a small amount resin/hardener and painted a very thin coat on the left side. Used a squeegee to remove all of the resin with the exception of a very thin layer. Mixed another batch of resin/hardener and added the microballons until I got the consistency of mayo. Used a popscicle stick and the squeegee, bending it as necessary, to apply the filler to the low spots on the left side. Repeated the process on the right side with separate batches of resin/hardener/micro.

I put the filler on relatively thick. Per Dan Horton on the VAF forums...."Better to apply too much than too little; adding more to thin spots later tends to result in uneven sanding density." (Differing amounts of microballoons give you differing hardnesses.)

As you can see from the pictures, I am far from being an auto body expert, but, I have been told that filler sands relatively easy. I hope so!! A lot of it will be coming off.

Sure looks like a real mess right now!!!!!

Time Today - 3 hours

Back to the Canopy

2009-06-13T12:52:00.009-05:00

Yesterday did a bit of sanding to eliminate any of the high spots on the fiberglass layups. Used a long flat board, forward and aft and a sanding block. Then spent a lot of time carefully sanding near the 2 layers of black tape. Sanded per the plans with the grits specified until I saw sanding marks in the 2nd layer of black tape. Used a short piece of wood 3/4" wide. Then carefully and slowly removed the 2nd layer of black tape. Did this slowly watching to see if the fiberglass edge started to lift or tear. Sanded a bit more in those areas. The first layer of tape lifted in an area and had to replace it.

Today did a little more sanding then cleaned the surface with compressed air. You have to get down very close to blow out all of the dust from the nooks and crannies. Mixed a small bit of epoxy and painted it on overlapping the tape layer. Did this only in the vicinity of the tape layer. May need to put another coat on the left side where I need a better transition between glass layers.

Time Yesterday and Today - 3 hours

Installed Wheels and Brakes-On the Main Gear!!

2009-06-11T19:34:00.008-05:00

Packed the wheel bearings with Mobil SHC 100 grease. Used the Handi-Packer as shown in the photo. It worked well. Attached the wheels and installed the brakes. Fabricated and ran the brake lines. The plans tell you to use thread sealant on the AN flare fitting threads. This is NOT correct. I did not insert the cotter pins, just in case the wheels have to come off. (I know I want to balance all 3 wheels. Have to get the "Motorcycle Wheel Balancing Stand" from Harbor Freight, $59, and get some self adhesive wheel weights.)

The nosegear will have to wait. Still waiting for the replacement from Van's as the original was warped.

Sure looks nice on the main gear!

Time Today - 4 hours

Another Fuel Tank Frustration

2009-06-10T22:01:00.002-05:00

Van's just sent an e-mail to the finish kit builders indicating there may be a problem with the sightglass on the RV-12 fuel tank.

RV-12 Service Note

"During a recent inspection of Van’s prototype RV-12, it was discovered that the fuel tank sight window, T-1210, was ‘crazing’. While this window has been in service for a year, Van’s is investigating alternative materials that will better resist the harsh environment inside the fuel tank. If you have not installed your T-1210 sight window, Van’s recommends that you do not install it at this time. Van’s is currently researching alternative materials and will make new sight windows available as soon as we have procured that If you’ve already installed your T-1210 sight window, replacement may be required. However, Van’s recommends suspending any further work on your fuel tank and leaving the window installed until we have more information on a ‘fix’ for this issue. We apologize for this inconvenience."

My tank is complete. Leak-free and has been primed and final painted. To replace the window the top of the tank would have to come off. In addition the front of the tank would have to come off to reach the clips that are holding the fuel return line to the top of the tank. IMHO, a major pain. Plain and simple, it would be a disaster. Would be much better off just building a complete new tank. Thought I was done with fuel tank sealant. Sigh!

This material compatibility issue is a simple but major engineering error, realizing the tank is inside the fuselage.

There can't be many of us that have the tank complete as of today. The tank should be acceptable for the near term, but, for those of us that have it completed, the factory should supply us with a complete set of new tank components at no cost, within the next 6 months.

We will see if Van's treats this problem and the RV-12 builders that have completed the tank correctly.

Landing Gear Continues

2009-06-10T21:08:00.008-05:00

Yesterday, I assembled the 2nd wheel and tire. I ran into a problem after tightening the shoulder washer nut. When I tried to attach the hub, the shoulder washer clearly interfered with the "fin" on the hub. This prevented me from inserting the capscrews to attach the hub. Called MATCO again and they acknowledged that they have seen this problem. MATCO told me either to file the edge on the hub where I was experiencing the interference or file the shoulder washer. I elected to do the first.

Then attempted to insert the gear leg in accordance with the plans. THE PLANS DO NOT WORK! The plans have you install the inboard wear plate and bracket and the outboard wear plate and bracket loosely. Then the plans instruct you to insert the gear leg. CANNOT BE DONE! It cannot be inserted because the side skin interferes. The outboard bracket is not hanging low enough for this to happen.

Today, I tried a method to insert the gear leg as suggested to me by Mike Tea. The inboard wear plate and bracket were attached loosely per the plans using the specified bolts, nuts and washers. There should be a good gap between the inboard wear plate and bracket.

NOTE: Before I forget, dry fit the parts with the bolts specified in the plans. I had to clean up some of the holes because the powdercoat finish would not allow the bolts to insert.

For the outboard wear plate and bracket I first inserted two hardware store variety 1/2" AN4 (1/4"-28) bolts from above. The two short bolts allowed be to center and tape the outboard wear plate to the bulkhead. With the wear plate in place, I removed the 1/2" AN4 bolts and attached the outboard bracket by inserting two hardware store 3" AN4 bolts from below securing them nuts above the bulkhead. This allows the bracket to hang a few inches below the wear plate. The gear leg can now be inserted and the tape can be removed from the outboard wear plate. The temporary AN4 bolts can now be replaced, one at a time with the hardware as specified in the plans. The AN6 bolt can be inserted. Torqued all bolts to specification.

Attached the axles and the stationary brake plate. (The axle cotter pin holes should be vertical). Then attempted to dry fit the brake puck assembly on the stationary brake plate. The brake puck assembly pins would not slide smoothly into the bushings on the stationary brake plate. Will have to call MATCO again tomorrow.

UPDATE: Called MATCO. Techincal Service first indicated that the parts are matched and asked if I swapped the stationary plates or the puck assembly from one to another. I did not think so. Then he indicated to realign the pins on the puck assembly to the bushings on the stationary plate, one inserts the pins into the bushings fully and then one loosens the capscrew and nut holding the pins to the puck assembly. Then you slowly retighten (and what I found best was to tighten them alternatively) the capscrew/nut. He indicated it may take a couple of tries. He indicated this is exactly what they do at MATCO. He also indicated that you could lube the pins with a dry graphite powder like that used for locks/keys. Tried it and it works very well. Also asked why one of the bushings looks like it has a groove in it. It is really two bushings that lock together.

A large washer and cotter pin was taped to the main axles. The washer in not shown in the plans or the MATCO manual. I am presuming the washer goes outboard next to the axle nut. Will place a post on the forums.

UPDATE: Per the VAF forum....."That is correct. The nut has a flange on it that fits into the washer." Problem solved.

Time Yesterday and Today - 10 hours

Section 35 - Landing Gear

2009-06-08T21:02:00.006-05:00

Decided to take a break from fiberglass. Started on the landing gear. The first steps have you attach the engine mount. I will do it later.

Started to mount the nosewheel tire. I separated the wheels halves. Then observed that there was a shoulder washer, nut, another nut and the stem cap on the tube. None of these are shown in the plans. Looked at the MATCO manual that came with the main wheels and brakes and it showed these valve stem components. BUT, the nut passed thru the valve stem hole in the nosewheel. Something amiss? Called MATCO tech support and they supplied a drawing for the nosewheel.

Click here for the MATCO nosewheel drawing.

The shoulder washer goes inside the wheel half and the nut really is NOT captured by the hole, but just sits in the valve stem hole. This is a different arrangement than the one shown in the MATCO manual for the main wheels. Used talc to dust the inside of the tire and the tube and reassembled it.

Then started on the first of the main wheels. To install the tube and the tire, the entire wheel has to be disassembled. The brake housing, the brake disk, the wheel halves, and the bearings have to be removed. The wheel hub has to be removed from the inner wheel half. This was very difficult but was finally able to wiggle it free. To install the tube, you have to pass the valve stem through the inner wheel half hole and then install the shoulder washer and its nut. Then you can pass the tube stem thru the slot in the inner wheel half. Next I, inserted the tube/wheel half in the tire and brought the wheel halves together being careful not to pinch the tube. Going to be a pain to fix a flat!!

Specs for torquing the capscrews and the nuts are in the MATCO manual.

The bearings came with a light coating of oil. Will get some grease and pack the bearings the next day. The MATCO manual suggests a few grease types and MATCO technical support indicated Mobil SHC 100 was acceptable.

BTW, in reading the MATCO manual, noticed automotive brake fluid is NOT compatible with the brakes supplied with the RV-12. Take note.

Time Today - 4 hours

Canopy Fiberglass Pictures

2009-06-08T11:30:00.002-05:00

Removed the peel ply this morning. Will let it cure another day then start the sanding and filling process.

Fiberglass - Center Section

2009-06-07T20:21:00.003-05:00

Completed the center section today. After cutting all of the strips to size, mixed a batch of epoxy and coated the mating surface. After removing the excess epoxy from ply #1 I put it in place. It is 2 3/4" by 36" long. A helper would have been nice because handling the long, wet strip or the dry strips is sort of awkward. The problem with the long strips is the top and bottom edge wants to unravel as opposed to the sides where the pieces wanted to distort. You have to be even more careful when ply's #2 thru #10 are placed. They are positioned dry and then wetted out with a 1" brush. I learned very quickly what type of brush stroke would cause the edge to unravel. Was nice to have a pair of scissors to cut the strands that did unravel. There still were a bunch. The narrowest strip (1/4") was even more of a challenge. It wanted just to fall apart. Ended up with a very small valley between the top of the dash and the canopy which will have to filled with epoxy and micro balloons. Attached the peel ply and will remove it on Monday.

Time Today - 4 hours

Fiberglass - Right Side

2009-06-06T20:18:00.002-05:00

Completed the fiberglass on the right side. It went much better than the left side. Amazing what a bit of experience does.

Purchased the West System metering pumps to ensure the resin to hardener ratio was correct for each batch. Best purchase I have made. 1 Pump of resin and 1 pump of hardener gets you a 5:1 ratio.

The photo shows the first ply on the bench with the template under the 1st layer of plastic. This allowed me to wet out the fiberglass ensuring it did not distort.

Attached the 5 layers of glass and a layer of peel-ply. The center section is next.

Time Today - 3 hours

Fiberglass - My 1st Experience

2009-06-03T17:22:00.020-05:00

Continued to prep for fiberglass yesterday. I fabricated the two extra foam blocks per a suggestion from John Bender. Attached then waxed the layer of cellophane packing tape with a mold release wax (5 coats). (I have described the extra foam blocks in a previous post. To insert the lower foam block, the hydraulic strut has to be removed.) Also waxed the two added foam blocks after taping them.

UPDATE: At the aft end of Ply #1, where the template comes to a point, it is a good idea to mask about 1/4" below the line on the canopy skirt. Will keep the canopy skirt clean, yet allow you to position ply #1.

Added a dab of silicone grease to the top of the canopy frame pivot bolt.

Time to start the fiberglass. This is a new experience for me. I am using the West Systems epoxy and hardener. See the photo. DO NOT use the fast hardener. It sets up way too fast. In fact, the fast hardener SMOKES as it sets. The slow hardener is much more manageable.

To cut the plys to shape, the rotary cutter worked very well. You have to be very careful how you handle the cut plys. They can change shape very easily if you stretch them. Cut a small piece of fiberglass and play with it. You will find you can handle the ply in the direction of the fibers but not in any other. I also made 5 copies of the ply template at Staples, thus, was able to reshape each ply just before installation using templates #1 thru #5.

To mix the epoxy, I bought a couple of squeeze bottles at Wal-Mart and used Renee's kitchen gram scale. Mixed it 5:1. Much easier to dispense the epoxy and hardener from the bottles as opposed to the original containers. BUT, I am going to find the West System pumps. Foolproof, as long as you read the instructions, per a chapter member. 1 pump on each.

After mixing a batch of epoxy and flox, I filled the shelf. Coated the bonding surface with epoxy. Then placed the first ply on some 0.7 mil plastic painters dropcloth. (A little stiffer than Saran Wrap). I placed the template under the dropcloth so I knew if I was distorting the glass form. Wetted it out, covered it with another piece of dropcloth and then used a squeegee to remove the excess. The first time I tried to place ply #1, it distorted terribly. It ended up in the trash can. Recut ply #1 and the 2nd time went well. Was able to position it without much distortion. The guide marks under the clear tape were a lifesaver.

Placing plys #2 thru #5 were simple, as you place them dry and then wet them out using a 1" paint brush.

Concluded today's learning experience by adding a piece of peel ply cut just a bit larger then ply #1. The right side will be MUCH easier. Will be busy with home projects the next couple of days. Right side is next.

Time Today and Yesterday - 7 hours

Continued Fiberglass Prep

2009-06-01T21:21:00.003-05:00

During the past two days, continued to prep for fiberglass. I formed the foam blocks to the fuselage contour using a piece of 3" x 16" hardwood. Stapled a strip of 80 grit sandpaper and sanded the foam, forward and aft per the plans. On one of the foam blocks, the foam broke out at the forward corner. I probably did not have enough epoxy near the bolt hole under the foam. Ensure you put some around the bolt hole on the inside foam surface using a toothpick. Built the area back up using some epoxy and flox.

Cut out the templates and attached them to the fuselage. Attached the black tape to the canopy on the left and right sides. The instructions are not too clear for the tape across the center. They say to project a line from one side to the other. Running a string from one side to the other does not look right. I tried to stay the same distance from the aft edge of the tube across the center. Sent pictures to some fellow builders for comments. Traced the outline for the first ply onto the duct tape and added a couple of reference marks for the center of the pivot bolt.

Cut the 1/8" wide shelf at the top of the foam. There is NOT much of a shelf. It might be 1/16" deep, if that. I'm guessing, but the purpose of the shelf must be to keep the glass from sliding down the vertical surface of the foam??

Time Yesterday and Today - 8 hours

Fiberglass Prep

2009-05-30T22:39:00.005-05:00

Masked the instrument panel and the canopy arms today. Have about 1/8" of masking tape on the instrument panel top to hold the paper in place. Should be OK. I do not want to mess up my powdercoated panel sections. I masked the canopy frame arms on both sides and the canopy frame cove per the plans. Don't know if is was necessary but masked all anyway. Then installed the three layers of duct tape on the sides and the single layer of duct tape on the instrument panel top.

Then fabricated the foam blocks. A small angle has to be formed at the aft portion of the block so it mates with the canopy skirt. The block also has to be shortened. Then the interior angle has to be formed per the plans. Raised the canopy and used a Sharpie to mark the cutline on the back side of the foam block. Used a hacksaw blade to cut it to shape and drilled the hole with a Unibit. As the Unibit goes to 3/4", used a round file to open up the hole to 7/8".

UPDATE: If I did this again, I would open up the hole only large enough to get a socket on the bolt head. The washer will remain in place and will not be removable after the layups. Reason being, if you open the hole to 7/8" there is a just a tiny bit of the foam block forward of the bolt hole.

Mixed some epoxy and added cotton flox. Put a piece of construction paper (cut to shape) on the foam and used duct tape to hold it in place. I should of left the forward part of the foam a bit longer. May have to glue a piece on both sides.

Time Yesterday and Today - 6 hours Totals - 167 Hours on the Finish Kit (65% Complete), 279 Hours on the Fuselage Kit (98% Complete), 108 Hours on the Empennage Kit (85% Complete), 175 Hours on the Wing Kit (100% Complete)

Returned My Nosegear Assembly

2009-05-28T19:41:00.002-05:00

Returned my WD-1201 Nosegear Assembly. Spoke to Tom and explained the plate that rests on the firewall was not flat. Mine was warped more than 1/8". Also the gap near the lower firewall nutplates was not wide enough to pass over the nutplates.

Tom told me to send it back to Van's. When received, they would send a replacement. $30 to ship it back via UPS.

I am still reading and learning about the canopy fiberglass process which is upcoming.

Canopy Riveted and Screwed to the Frame

2009-05-26T21:03:00.008-05:00

Glad it is over. The canopy has been mounted. Held my breath each time I set a rivet on the forward bow. All went well. Set the rivets on the forward bow using a hand rivet puller. Tightened all of the screws just tight.

Had a problem with one of the hydraulic struts. The ears broke off as I attempted to mount it. Have ordered 1 more. Don't know if I did something wrong or I had a lemon. $20 plus shipping.

Time Today - 4 hours

Not Too Happy with The Fuel Tank Service Notice

2009-05-26T20:58:00.003-05:00

NOT HAPPY!!!! The tank is complete here, at least I thought so, and leak free. This is a simple thread mate issue. May have to send the entire tank back to Van's and let them modify it.

Removing the flange is going to be a chore if it cannot be re-tapped. Why NOT just retap it???

Click Here for the Link to the RV-12 Service Notice on the Fuel Tank Flange

Final Drilled the Canopy-Enlarged Holes with the Hand Drill

2009-05-25T16:32:00.013-05:00

I used the hand drill to enlarge the holes in the canopy at the front bow to #27 using the plexi bit. Enlarging the holes this way worked very NICE. Every so often the drll bit would grab, backed it up, released a bit of pressure and continued. All holes and no evidence of cracking where the bit exited the hole. Am HAPPY!

Used a permagrit countersink with a #30 pilot to countersink the holes that will accept rivets. Little by little at a time, looking at the roundness of the CS and making adjustments to the drill/bit position. This bit worked very well. Thanks John Masterman!

Enlarged the holes that will accept screws using the Uni-bit. Ran the Uni-Bit in from the other side also as the step is not quite thick enough. Deburred ALL holes in the canopy, both inside and outside using my normal deburring bit. Looked at a sample of the finished holes using a 10X and they look pretty good.

Half moon'ed the most upper forward canopy skirt holes that were on the edge of the canopy. Rounded all sharp edges. This should minimize any stress in this area. Van's indicated that this was an engineering issue and would be corrected with future kits. This top most forward hole on the canopy skirt needs to be moved aft a bit.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 3 hours

Preparing for Canopy Fiberglass

2009-05-24T12:46:00.005-05:00

The picture shows how John Bender prepared the forward part of the canopy for fiberglass. John added two additional pieces of foam. These two pieces are removed after the fiberglass sets up so they have to be taped and waxed. To add the lowest foam piece, the hydraulic strut has to be removed.

Adding these two pieces of foam prevents the glass cloth from settling into the crevice.

Others that have completed the fiberglass have indicated that this is a good idea. Another tip received was to put a dab of grease (vaseline or ?) over the forward bolt and washer.

More John Bender Canopy Pictures

Canopy Hints Link

Finished Painting - Canopy Frame and Tank

2009-05-23T19:20:00.007-05:00

Finished painting and clear coating the fuel tank and finished the canopy frame by painting the front bow. The front bow now matches the instrument panel (flat gray) color. It is amazing how the stone finish now appears on the tank. The fuel tank sealant mess has just about disappeared.

Fabricated the canopy lift handles and the canopy guide blocks in advance of needing them. Used the 6" scotchbrite wheel to round the edges of the guide blocks.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 3 hours

Painting Canopy Frame and Fuel Tank

2009-05-22T21:27:00.002-05:00

Prepped the frame and the fuel tank for primer. Primed both and then waited a few hours to start the topcoat.

For the frame, painted the rear bow flat white. Also painted the outboard surface of the interior angles flat white as these will show thru the plexiglass. Painted the items that will show inside the cockpit the powdercoat color. This included the canopy frame rails and the inboard surface of the canopy skirt and the inboard surface of the interior angles. Will paint the front bow the same color as the instrument panel (on Saturday).

After priming all of the surfaces on the fuel tank, I painted the three (3) surfaces that will show using the stone finish. The stone finish masked all of the fuel tank sealant that oozed during fabrication. It covered everything and the fuel tank now looks respectable. Will add a coat of clear coat on Saturday.

Will post pictures after I finish painting the frame and tank.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 4 hours

More Canopy

2009-05-21T21:17:00.004-05:00

Back to work on the 12 after battling a cold. Checked the curl on the canopy skirt. I formed this curl using a full 12 oz. can of pop.

Removed the canopy from the frame and faricated the canopy latch and handle. Took quite a bit of manual hand sanding to get the rod to fit into the handle. This item took a lot more time than I would have guessed. The screw that is ultimately used to secure the two is a AN509-8R14 (Page 34-10). ONLY 3 threads engage the tapped hole in the handle. The specified screw seems to be TOO short. Passed this information on to Van's support. Have read about many incidents where the canopy has popped open during flight.

The holes in the rear bow and the holes in the interior angles where screws will be used to secure the bubble have to be drilled to #27. This is NOT in the plans (or I missed it).

Countersunk the most forward 5 holes in the frame.

Fabricated and installed the guide blocks and guide plates.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 4 hours

Enlarging Canopy Holes

2009-05-20T23:55:00.010-05:00

Per some advice via a Chapter meeting, I ordered a hand drill to enlarge the existing #40 and 1/8" holes in the canopy to #27 using a #27 plexi drill bit. Available from Ace hardware. Will practice with some scrap before trying it on the canopy. Theory says it should work, if it grabs you can stop and back it up.

Fiskars Hand Drill Link

The only other method that was recommended to enlarge existing holes was to use a Unibit at a very slow speed. BUT, the first Unibit step is 1/8" (approx #30) and the next step is 5/32" (approx #22-#23).

Have been told by a number of people to never enlarge an existing hole with a normal drill bit or a plexi drill bit in a pneumatic or power drill as the bit may grab and plexi will snap back before you know it.

Canopy Hints Link

RV-12 Canopy Fiberglassing Article in the RVator

2009-05-20T00:38:00.002-05:00

How appropriate!! An article on fiberglassing the canopy has just been issued and appears in the 2nd edition of the 2009 RVator. Written by Van himself on the RV-12 he is building.

Click here for the RVator

Drilling the Canopy

2009-05-18T21:32:00.011-05:00

Used the painters tape method to determine the canopy tangent line to the canopy frame front bow. It worked OK but used a Sharpie to transfer the line to the tube and then put the canopy on a few more times refining the marks each time. When I was satified, drilled the front bow every 2" using a normal #40 bit.

Before actually drilling the canopy, I went to the hardware store and bought some scrap plexi to practice drilling. I was able to crack the practice piece as the bit exited if too much pressure was used. The key for a FRESH hole -- a plexiglass bit, turning at high speed in a pneumatic drill, using virtually NO pressure. Enlarging an existing hole is going to require a different technique.

Drilled the front bow and rear roll bar alternatively per the plans. Lining up the drill to hit the predrilled hole in the bow was much easier than I thought it would be. Sight it one way, sight again 90 degrees and then make small adjustments till centered.

Then prepped the side skirts and aligned them getting the 1/8" overlap with the side skins to keep out the rain. First match drilled them to the canopy frame and then match drilled them to the canopy and inner angle with the plexiglass bit.

Noticed one problem. The most forward, upper row hole in the side skirt just barely hits the underlying plexiglass. I have 1/2 of a hole on the left side in the plexi (the drill bit wandered) and have a hole as close to the plexi edge as you could imagine on the right side skirt. Compared my results with three other builders and all experienced the same. Was a bit worried but this appears to be a design issue. Sent Van's an e-mail. DO NOT drill these two holes before you mark them and check to see if there is enough plexi behind the hole!!

UPDATE: Sent an e-mail to Van's technical support and they acknowledged that this was a design issue that will be corrected. They gave me the option of leaving the screw out of the left and right side as that area is fully covered and supported by the fiberglass.

Now, looking for advice to do something with the hole very near edge and the partial (1/2 of a hole), right on the edge of the plexiglass canopy.

UPDATE: Will sand both holes to a half-moon shape and smooth all sharp edges. This should eliminate the stress risers and also give me the option of installing the screw and nut.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 6 hours

Fuel Tank is Good!

2009-05-18T21:30:00.003-05:00

The balloon has not changed the very least after about 30 hours. Will leave the balloon attached for a couple of days but it looks leak tight.

Fuel Tank Testing-Looking GOOD!

2009-05-17T18:27:00.006-05:00

Came down with a cold so I only tested the fuel tank today. It has been sitting for a week.

Initially tried the setup in the plans but had leaks around the filler neck and where the balloon was attached.

So went to Lowes' for some fittings and a short nipple. With the fittings and the rubber coupling (supplied by Van's), was able to attach the balloon to the large fuel inlet. Initially the balloon leaked here also, but, corrected it by first attaching the balloon, then put a few wraps of teflon tape over the balloon (to protect it), then tightened a small hose clamp over the teflon tape and balloon. Capped the fuel outlet/strainer and attached the air chuck to the fuel return line fitting.

When I went to the grocery store for a few balloons, found out that there is a cheap grade and a helium tight grade!!!!

Going to have to do something with the strainer. It only went into the fitting on the bottom of tank about 1 1/2 to 2 turns. NOT far enough! Will have to fix.

Link to VA-210 Fitting Issue on Van's Website

Remember your high school physics. PV = nRT. Barometric pressure changes and temperature changes WILL change the shape of the balloon!!! After 4 hours, IT IS HOLDING!!!

Time Today - 1 hour

Trimmed the Canopy Sides

2009-05-16T18:22:00.001-05:00

Used the same 40 grit sandpaper on a block to remove 1/8" off of the canopy sides. This gave me the correct clearance between the canopy and the frame on both sides. A lot more dust and muscle but it worked.

Ended up with a VERY good fit. Used the very coarse sandpaper (40 grit), then 80, 120, 220. Then formed the edges with the Avery plexiglass scraper to bevel the edges. And finish sanded all of the edges on the canopy with 400 grit. A nice polished surface!

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 5 hours

Removed 1/8" from the Forward Edge of the Canopy

2009-05-15T19:22:00.009-05:00

Spent the entire day trying different methods to remove 1/8" from the forward edge of the canopy. Tried a 3" sanding disk (too imprecise), a sandpaper flapping disk (sort of imprecise) and then resorted to some 40 grit sandpaper on a block. A lot of dust and muscle but it worked. There must be a better idea and method!! A lot of dust later..........

Ended up with a VERY good fit. Used the very coarse sandpaper (40 grit), then 120, 220 and will finish the edge with 400 grit after I form the edges with the Avery plexiglass scraper.

Looks like I will have to remove 1/8" from the bottom of the sides where the canopy will be near the frame (the plans tell us to leave a 1/8" gap). The aft portion will then have to be finished, no material has to be removed. The rear window will need about 1/16" of trimming to get the 1/32" gap between the canopy and rear window.

UPDATE: Wear a dust mask!! I was out of commission for about 4 days after I sanded the front bow and sides of the canopy. Think the dust induced a pretty good respiratory infection.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 3 hours

Installing the Canopy - 1st Time

2009-05-14T18:58:00.002-05:00

Time to update the blog. Installed the canopy for the 1st time. The canopy I received had been pre-drilled for the canopy latch and had been cut out at the forward outboard corners to clear the weld in the canopy frame. As such the steps in the plans pertaining to these two items were not necessary. A bit of trimming, tho, will be required at the forward outboard corners to clear the welds. Installed the low tack tape, but this is a bit premature as the canopy will have to go on and come off before the tape is required.

Had an initial TIGHT fit. Was obvious that some of the canopy would have to be removed where it abutts the instrument panel. Was also obvious that the canopy frame would have to lifted at its most aft position so the frame was even or parallel with the rollbar. Had to insert another 1/8" spacer under the most aft position of the canopy frame. (Total is now 1/4" at this most aft position).

Will remove 1/8" from the most forward edge of the canopy on Friday.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 5 hours

Canopy Frame is Complete

2009-05-13T20:39:00.007-05:00

Went to the hardware store this morning and bought some brass washers. A single washer on each side gave me the clearance that is required at the pivot point. Tried two washers first, but, one was enough.

Fitted the canopy frame to the fuselage using the alignment blocks and spring clamps. Used the suggested cardboard on top of the canopy decks and also used 2 pieces of 1/8" thick scrap Al plate near the rollbar. Clamped all into position using the large spring clamps.

Fluted the attach angles and then match drilled them and riveted them to the frame.

Suggest you first position the VERY TOP centerline of frame with the centerline of the rollbar. You have to get on top!! After doing this, all else aligned perfectly.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today - 5 hours

Canopy Continued Then a Problem!!

2009-05-12T20:09:00.003-05:00

Continued to prep the parts for the canopy by deburring and then pre-drilling the angles that will be used to secure the plexiglass bubble to the canopy decks. Attached the gas struts and then we mounted the frame on the fuselage. All fit rather well. The first time we tried to OPEN the frame ---- Disaster! The forward edge of the canopy frame caught on the instrument panel forward fuselage deck and bent it quite a bit. Disappointed to say the least!!! Reading forward 3 steps in the newly revised plans, it says this is a possibility. Wish I had read AHEAD and understood what it was trying to tell me. Oh well! Spent the rest of the day repairing the damage. With the seaming pliers, I was able to bend the deck back into shape. I also removed some of the deck overlap with the scotchbrite wheel. Maybe a bit of body filler later to smooth the bumps. Will go to the hardware store tomorrow and get some brass washers.

The plans SHOULD require the washers at the pivot point as others have experienced the same!!

The pictures show the deck after the repair.

Canopy Hints Link

Time Today including the Repair - 6 hours

Started the Canopy

2009-05-11T21:59:00.004-05:00

Started to gather the parts for the canopy. Spent the day deburring the frame and grinding the weld at the front of the canopy frame where the plexi will be in contact with the frame. Used the Dremel on the weld and used the 1" scotchbrite wheel on all of the other edges. The scalloped aft end of the frame was especially rough. Rounded all other sharp edges.

ALSO REREAD MY PREVIOUS BLOG ENTRY ON CANOPY RESEARCH AND HINTS - Click Here

Time Today - 2 hours

Rear Window and Turtle Deck Skins

2009-05-09T16:57:00.003-05:00

On Friday, cleaned up the tank a bit, worked on the wiring extending the two unused wires and were able to coil them in the DB-25 connector. Mounted the two DB-25 connectors. Then, hand sanded the edges of the rear window and drilled the rear window to #27 with the plexi bit very slowly.

MY TURTLE DECK SKINS ARE STILL NOT RIVETED. THINK THIS WAS ONE OF BETTER DECISIONS I HAVE MADE WITH REGARD TO THE CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO REMOVE THEM AT WILL.

Today, drilled the turtle deck skins for the window screws (not in the plans). Then attached the rear window as follows. Attached the rear window to the rollbar with screws working from the top center. Put 5 or 6 screws in the rollbar on each side and then attached the turtle deck skin to the fuselage and tailcone with cleco's. Then worked down the forward part of the window with screws and the aft part of the window with clecos. It worked!

Installed the instrument panel sections. All of this is required to start working on the canopy. I am just about ready to start the canopy.

Time Yesterday and Today - 6 hours

Fuel Tank is COMPLETE

2009-05-07T22:31:00.000-05:00

It is sure UGLY and should pass the leak test. I used more than enough sealant as it squeezed out of all of the joints and rivet heads and screws. Will let the tank sealant cure for at least 7-10 days before testing. No real problems. Ensure the clips holding the fuel return line are installed prior to installing the front cover and the fuel sender!!!

Will pressure test, probably try to clean it up a bit and then paint it with the stone finish. It should look a bit better then.

Took a couple of pictures of the interior of the tank thru the front opening.

If I ever build another, will use a bit less sealant.

Time Today - 4 hours

Fuel Filler Neck Pictures

2009-05-07T10:28:00.001-05:00

A couple of more pictures showing how I bent the flange on the fuel filler neck to match the turtle deck skin.

Fuel Tank Continues

2009-05-06T20:28:00.007-05:00

Yesterday, had a problem. Installed the fuel tank in the fuselage and then attempted to fit the filler neck. It was TOO long. After calling some of my fellow RV-12 builders and talking to Gus at Van's, it appears my fuel neck is about 1/4" longer than the others have received. Also, noticed the flange on the filler neck was perfectly flat. Others have received a fuel neck where the flange was pre-bent to the compound curve on the turtle deck skin. The joy of receiving one of the first finishing kits. Solving this issue took the most part of the day.

Today, shortened the filler neck a bit and then formed the flange on the filler neck to the turtle deck skin with a set of seaming pliers/visegrips. Ended up with a good fit, less than 1/32" all the way around.

Drilled the fuel neck flange to the turtle deck. I inserted the fuel cap to ensure I had alignment. Then, marked the flange on the top of the fuel tank. Match drilled the flange to the top and marked it with alignment marks before disassemling and deburring. Ensure you clean the fuel cap of all of the shavings.

Used a Unit-bit to drill a large hole in the center of the tank top flange, then tried a set of snips which cut a really rough cut. Cut a nice circle using a sanding drum in the Dremel. Looks pretty good!!

Fabricated the clips for the fuel return line using some scrap. Did not find a piece of Al in the parts list.

Time Today - 6 hours

Fuel Tank - 3rd Session

2009-05-04T17:24:00.006-05:00

Yesterday, I prepped the fuel level sender and trial fitted it per the plans. No issues.

Prepped the parts for the fuel window today. Found out I did not have to drill the plexiglass to #27 as the holes were correctly sized. I did have to drill tank itself and the window backing plate to accept the #6 screw. This is not in the plans.

Roughed up the rivet hole area in the fuel window with some coarse grit sandpaper and scotchbrited the metal backing plate. Cleaned the metal mating surfaces with naptha. Did not use naptha on the window as I did not know if it would react badly. Was careful to avoid getting any oils on the plexiglass surface.

The window uses the tiny all metal locknuts. I ran the screws thru the locknut a couple of times before installation as they are very very tight.

Mixed a small batch of fuel tank sealant using the gram scale. Placed a thin layer on the window and then attached it to the top two screws (temporarily inserted). As I dipped each of the screws and tightened them just snugly, some of the sealant oozed to the view holes. It really just takes a THIN layer of sealant. I tried to clean one of them up a bit and made the situation worse. Nevertheless, it looks OK.

Used a small hemostat to install the 4 washers at the required locations, all at one time. Mess-free.

Finished by drilling the tank flange.

Time Today - 4 hours

Fuel Tank - 2nd Session

2009-05-02T22:54:00.006-05:00

The 2nd session went a bit better than the first with regard to the mess.

I first attached the front brace. During riveting, several of the mandrels broke above the top head of manufactured head of the rivet. Each of the rivets snapped or popped and the shop head is the same as the others, but the mandrel snapped off at the wrong location. After finishing for the day, did a bit of research and found out that this is a common problem with these two types of rivets.

Here is what I found on the forum.

Broken Rivet Mandrel Thread #1
Broken Rivet Mandrel Thread #2
Broken Rivet Mandrel Thread #3

So will cut them off with the Dremel after the sealant cures.

Attached the baffles inside the tank ensuring all of the required passages remained open. Then, I deviated from the plans a bit and first attached the rear brace to the rear cover before installing the rear cover. Was much easier to set the AD4 rivets this way. Used a pair of tweezers to coat the head and stem of the AD4.

Three small batches of fuel tank sealant.

Time Today - 7 hours

Fuel Tank - Fuel Tank Sealant 1st Experience!!

2009-05-01T19:47:00.011-05:00

UPDATE: Before starting the fuel tank ensure the fuel tank outlet strainer screws into its fitting. Found out during tank testing that my strainer would only screw into the fitting about 2 turns. See the picture on my May 17 entry. Going to have to find a way to correct this with it installed. 2 turns is NOT enough. Is EASIER to check it now!!

Started to assemble the fuel tank. Scotchbrited all of the mating surfaces with red scotchbrite. Section 5.0 tells you to score the mating pieces and do not be timid. So I did that. Cleaned the mating surfaces with naptha, per the instructions. Naptha can be found at Wal-Mart. It is COLEMAN stove fuel in the RV department. Its highly flammable - Be Careful! The plans tell you to hand pull all of the rivets.

Mixed the fuel sealant using a gram scale. 10:1 ratio. For this first batch I mixed 60 grams.

Lessons learned. A helper is useful here. Coat one of the surfaces with the goo. The pieces will slip around as you try to position them. The bottom slipped out of position on me. Had to disassemble and recoat the flanges with goo. Assemble with a few clecos. Dipping the rivets into the goo and then riveting the pieces is slow going. Get a helper to dip the rivets. And the stuff gets all over. Keep a supply of 6"x6" cloth pieces available and some lacquer thinner. You have to clean the HAND rivet puller and shake out the stem as you go.

I put some masking paper on the workbench, and I am so glad I did. Filled the holes in the corners with the goo and then ensured everything was sealed. Ran my gloved finger to smooth the outside.

Not the neatest, but should be OK. A helper, covering the workbench, gloves, and a lot of small cloth pieces are most beneficial.

My hands are only partially black. My clecos are soaking in lacquer thinner. Think I used about 15 pair of gloves for this session. Yuck.

Time Today - 4 hours

Response from Van's on the WH-RV12-OPTIONAL Harness

2009-05-01T11:01:00.002-05:00

Q: Looking at the MAIN DB-25 pin connector on the WH-RV12-OPTIONAL harness. There is a white-black wire and a orange wire with female pins attached that are NOT inserted in the DB-25 connector. The wires are just hanging.

Received the following response from Gus at Van's.

"These wires are left unconnected, they may be needed for future changes to the Dynon. The wires are for Re-Dundant DSAB on future Dynon products. DSAB is Dynons own internal data tranfer protocol much like RS232. In the future both Data and Power etc will all be transferred on two wires between all Dynon units."

So I will leave them unconnected but have to extend at least one of them. This will allow be to heatshrink and then reach all of the locations in the DB-25. Will coil up the wires in the DB-25.

Fuel Tank

2009-04-30T22:07:00.004-05:00

Spent the day reading and then deburring the parts necessary to assemble the fuel tank. The plans seem to be clear and will mix my first batch of fuel tank sealant on Friday.

Attached the nutplates to the forward face of the tank and attached the nutplates to the brace.

Bought myself a bunch of nytril gloves, the first time I mixed a batch of sealant for the firewall, my hands were black for about a week.

Time Today - 4 hours

Also Was Wondering About Stabilator Bushings

2009-04-29T20:26:00.002-05:00

Has anyone noticed?

See Figure 1 on Page 32-14. The stabilator cables are routed thru the forward and aft flange of the center section bulkhead (F-1204A and D) and then thru the baggage bulkhead (F-1206A). Per the plans, bushings are not shown on the figure nor have they been inserted via a plan step. This is the ONLY place where bushings have NOT been specified when cables pass thru a CIRCULAR hole in a bulkhead or flange.

Was this an oversight? I sent an e-mail to Van's today.

Completed the Wiring - For Now

2009-04-29T16:36:00.005-05:00

During past few days I completed all of the wiring with the exception of a few items where I am awaiting a reply from Van's support. Then re-installed the rudder pedals, hopefully for the last time.

Bundling of the wires and then routing them so there would be adequate clearance for the rudder pedals took some time. The two DG6 clamps have to first be flattened a bit so they are not too thick as they will interfere with the rudder pedal torque tubes. The plans show the clamps pointing inward. This will not work because there will not be enough room for the rudder pedal blocks to slip in between the two clamps. Van's support indicated it was acceptable to point them outward. Trying to fit all of the wiring, the two coaxial cables and the static line thru two clamps is nearly impossible without crushing something. A better solution would have been to use two smaller clamps pointing inward and the two flattened DG6 clamps pointing outward.

Inserted the rudder pedals. Bundled all of the wiring above and below the panel. Installed the autopilot disconnect switch in the central panel section and wired it to the DB-37 pin connector. Inserted the pins from the music wire harness, the PTT wires and the trim wires. Attached the hood.

Was ready to complete the DB-25 pin connectors but ran into a problem. Page 31-07, Step 7. Looking at the MAIN DB-25 pin connector on the WH-RV12-OPTIONAL harness. There is a white-black wire and a orange wire with female pins attached that are NOT inserted in the DB-25 connector. The wires are just hanging. Jim Cone saw the same.

Traced the wires and they are a part of the future autopilot servo harness. There is an orange and a white black wire in this 7 wire AUTOPILOT SERVO harness. Page 31-09, Step 8. Checked with a DVM and there is continuity. The same wires continue to the tail.

So they most likely SHOULD be inserted into a location on the MAIN DB-25. Will await an answer from Van's support.

So, with regard to the wiring, the DB-25 connectors need to be completed and the magnetic reed switches need to be installed. I am awaiting a response on both of these items.

Also need to attach the fittings to the static line (will wait for the Dynon D-180).

Time over Past Few Days - 8 hours

Finished the Mapbox

2009-04-25T20:03:00.002-05:00

The 5W CAMLOC fastener came from Aircraft Spruce today, so I finished the mapbox. The 5W grip length worked just fine with the powdercoat finish. Also, did a bit of reading, trying to build up the courage to attack the fuel tank.

Time Today - 2 hours

Avionics Preview - Plug 'n Play!!

2009-04-25T09:37:00.006-05:00

Installation of the avionics, once available, should be plug and play. JerryG took some photos of the switch panel and circuit board at SnF09.

The pictures give me a good idea on the length of the cables that must be left above the instrument panel deck. Feel much more confident in installing the wiring clamps below the panel and re-installing the rudder pedals.

Thanks, Jerry!!!

Backordered Parts

2009-04-24T21:23:00.000-05:00

All of the remaining parts arrived from Van's today. I attempted to install the AN4-14A bolt in the elevator pulley. It would not fit. The hole was a couple of mils undersized. Thought about it for a while and then called John Bender. He had the same problem. Because it is in a tight space, a drill would not fit and everything else I could think of would not work. John told me to try a small bit of sandpaper rolled into a small cylindrical shape. Twirlled the sandpaper with my fingers and a minute later the bolt just cleared the hole. Problem solved, thanks John.

Then removed the CAMLOC from the mapbox door. A post on VAF said to use a small pick. IT WORKED. The lockwasher is junk, but have ordered another with the 5W CAMLOC. The picture also shows the small notch I had to cut in the mapbox door to be able to insert the CAMLOC thru the 1/4" hole.

Spent the rest of the day reading about fuel tank assembly.

Time Today - 1 hour

Instrument Panel Sections Back From Powerdercoat

2009-04-23T17:36:00.005-05:00

Yesterday I picked up the 3 instrument panel sections and the mapbox door from the powdercoat shop. Then barely started the assembly and attachment of the mapbox to the rightmost section before the day was over.

The instrument panel sections look GREAT! A medium gray powdercoat followed by a flat powdercoat. NO glare! Kinda like what I ended up with.

Today, drilled the hole in the mapbox door for the CAMLOC fastener. Could not insert the fastener thru the 1/4" hole in the mapbox door. Had to use a small triangular file to cut two grooves in the mapbox door to allow the pins on the CAMLOC fastener to get thru.

Then tried to fit the CAMLOC receptacle. IT WOULD NOT WORK! Because the powdercoat finish is quite thick, the grip length of the CAMLOC supplied (2600-4W) was TOO short. Ordered a 5W and lockwasher from Wicks Aircraft. Its grip length is a bit longer. It should work, now I have to figure out how to remove the CAMLOC washer from the 4W! Maybe have to use God's tool, the DREMEL.

Then tried to trial fit all of the panel sections. They DID NOT FIT! Because the tolerances are so tight, the powdercoat thickness interfered. Had to sand the powdercoat off the edges of the 3 panel sections where they abutt each other. It sanded so well, touchup is not required. After sanding all of them fit very well.

LESSONS LEARNED from my 1st powdercoat experience:

Tell the powdercoat shop to paint ONE side. MARK the back side DO NOT PAINT!!
Tell the powdercoat shop to apply the thinnest layers possible.

Also finished the fuel tank window area by applying the clearcoat.

The 1st shop I contacted wanted $150 to powdercoat the 4 sections plus both sets of the hinges. Reflex Fitness Products, INC. in Milan, IL did it for less than $50-60 plus shipping. 309-756-1050. www.reflexfitness.com They did a very good job. They can ship!

Tell Mike I told ya to call!!

Time Yesterday and Today - 4 hours

Non-Skid Pads & Interior Painting

2009-04-21T13:20:00.003-05:00

Applied the non skid pads to the step floor and the roll bar crossmember. Then masked around the non-skid pads. Used the grey stone finish and put a clearcoat over it after it dried. On the crossmember I measured 7/8" vice the 3/4" in the plans. The pads stick very well, you get ONE chance. A helper is useful here.

Then primed the fuel tank window area ensuring I masked all of the holes. Will apply the stone finish to this tiny bit on the fuel tank. After fuel tank assembly, I will be able to mask the window area and paint the remainder of the tank.

Time Today - 3 hours

Finished Control System Install - For Now

2009-04-20T19:48:00.003-05:00

Really did not work much on the 12 on Sunday. Adam helped me pull the rudder cables and the elevator cables since there was no school.

Today, I completed the control system installation, for now. Attaching the bolts, washers and nuts took a bit of ingenuity. I either need another set of hands or more joints in my wrists to navigate the tight spaces. But got it done with the assistance of Renee. There are many steps yet to perform in Section 32, once I am able to attach the wings and the VS and HS.

Found I was shorted the AN4-14A bolt that passes thru the center of the elevator pulleys. It is shown on the plans but it does not appear on the hardware list! Called Van's and they will be sending it.

Finished the day by priming the step area. Will attach the non-skid pads to the step area on Tuesday and then final paint the step area with the stone finish.

Time Today - 4 hours